If your garage door opener light stays on and won’t turn off, the most common causes are a misadjusted light timer, misaligned safety sensors, a stuck wall button, or a wiring issue. Most opener brands default to a 4.5-minute light timer that can be adjusted through the wall console or Learn button. If the light stays on indefinitely, the problem is usually electrical – not the bulb. Advanced Door is Utah’s #1 rated garage door company with 4.9 stars, 30,000+ reviews, and same-day service across Ogden, Salt Lake City, Provo, Park City, Logan, and all of Utah. Call (844) 971-3667 for a free estimate on any opener repair or replacement.

Last updated: September 2026
Table of Contents
- How Long Should the Opener Light Stay On?
- Why Your Opener Light Stays On (8 Causes)
- Why Your Opener Light Won’t Turn On
- Opener Light Blinking or Flashing
- How to Adjust the Light Timer by Brand
- LED Bulbs and Opener Compatibility
- Quick Diagnostic Table
- Repair Cost Guide
- Safe DIY Checks Before Calling a Pro
- How Utah’s Climate Affects Opener Lights
- When to Call a Professional
- 7 Common Mistakes That Make Light Problems Worse
- Frequently Asked Questions
How Long Should the Opener Light Stay On?
Before troubleshooting, understand what “normal” looks like. Every garage door opener has a built-in light timer that keeps the light on for a set period after the door operates or the wall button is pressed. This is a safety feature designed to illuminate your garage while you enter or exit.
Most garage door openers are factory-set to keep the light on for 4.5 minutes (270 seconds) after the last door cycle or button press. After this period, the light should turn off automatically.
Here’s what’s normal by brand:
- LiftMaster/Chamberlain: 4.5 minutes default (adjustable from 1.5 to 4.5 minutes)
- Genie: 4.5 minutes default (adjustable from 0 to 4.5 minutes on newer models)
- Craftsman: 4.5 minutes default (adjustable on models with Learn button)
- Linear: 4.5 minutes default (adjustable from 2 to 4.5 minutes on some models)
If the light turns off after this period, your opener is working correctly. If it stays on indefinitely, keeps turning back on, or never turns on at all, you have a diagnosable problem.
Pro Tip
The light timer resets every time you press the wall button, activate a remote, or the door cycles. If someone in your household keeps pressing the button, the light will appear to “never turn off” because the timer keeps resetting. Before diagnosing a problem, make sure no one is activating the opener.
Why Your Opener Light Stays On and Won’t Turn Off (8 Causes)
When your garage door opener light refuses to turn off, the problem falls into one of these eight categories, listed from most common to least common.
1. Light Timer Set to Maximum or “Always On”
Some openers allow you to set the light timer to a “continuous on” mode, especially newer LiftMaster and Chamberlain models with wall consoles that have a dedicated light button. If someone pressed and held the light button, it may have toggled to “always on” mode.
Fix: Press and hold the light button on your wall console for about 3 seconds. On most LiftMaster/Chamberlain models, this toggles between timed and always-on modes. If the light turns off after a few seconds, you’ve solved the problem.
2. Safety Sensor Misalignment or Obstruction
This is one of the most common causes of a light that won’t turn off. Your garage door safety sensors (photo eyes) at the bottom of the door frame communicate with the opener. When they’re misaligned, blocked, or malfunctioning, many opener models keep the light on as a visual warning.
On LiftMaster and Chamberlain openers, a sensor problem typically causes the opener light to blink 10 times after the door finishes moving. On Genie openers, the light may stay on continuously when sensors lose alignment.
Fix: Check both sensors. The sending sensor (usually has a solid amber/yellow LED) and receiving sensor (usually has a solid green LED) should both have steady lights. If the green LED is blinking or off, the sensors are misaligned. Clean the lenses, adjust the brackets, and make sure nothing is blocking the beam path between the two sensors.
Action Step
Check your sensors right now: look at the LED lights on both sensor units at the bottom of your door frame. Sending sensor = steady amber/yellow. Receiving sensor = steady green. If either LED is off, blinking, or dim, that’s likely causing your light to stay on. See our complete sensor alignment guide for step-by-step instructions.
3. Wall Button Stuck or Short Circuit
If your wall button (wall console) is stuck in the pressed position, has corroded contacts, or has a wiring short, it can send a continuous signal to the opener that keeps the light on. This is especially common in older, single-button wall consoles.
Signs of a stuck button:
- Light stays on AND the opener won’t respond to remote commands
- The door tries to move when you press the light button
- Buzzing or clicking from the wall button
Fix: Disconnect the wall button wires from the back of the opener motor unit. If the light turns off, the problem is in the wall button or its wiring. Replace the wall button or inspect the wiring for shorts, especially at staple points where the wire runs along the wall or ceiling.
4. Motion Sensor Activated or Malfunctioning
Many newer openers (especially LiftMaster 87504 and Chamberlain B6765T) have built-in motion sensors or motion-activated light features. If the motion detection is enabled and something in your garage keeps triggering it (a flag, a pet, temperature changes causing air movement), the light will keep turning on.
Fix: Check your wall console settings. On LiftMaster models with the 880LMW or 889LM wall console, you can disable the motion-activated light feature through the menu. On Chamberlain models, look for a “Motion” setting in the wall console. Disable it and see if the light turns off normally.
Pro Tip
Pets, hanging flags, and even spider webs near the opener can trigger motion sensors. If your opener light turns on at random times, especially at night, the motion sensor is likely the cause. Disable it or adjust the sensitivity before assuming a wiring problem.
5. Logic Board Malfunction
The logic board (circuit board) is the “brain” of your opener. If it’s damaged by a power surge, age, or moisture, it can malfunction and keep the light circuit energized permanently. This is more common in openers over 10 years old.
Signs of a logic board light issue:
- Light stays on AND other features behave erratically (intermittent remote response, random door movement)
- Light stays on after a power surge or lightning storm
- Resetting the opener doesn’t fix the problem
Fix: Try a full power reset first: unplug the opener for 60 seconds, then plug it back in. If the light still stays on after the reset cycle completes, the logic board likely needs replacement. This is a professional repair – call (844) 971-3667 for diagnosis.
6. Wiring Problem Between Opener and Light Socket
Inside the opener motor housing, wires connect the logic board to the light socket(s). If a wire is damaged, pinched, or has a short, the light circuit can stay energized regardless of the timer. Vibration from the motor over years of use can loosen connections.
Fix: This requires opening the motor housing, which should only be done by a qualified technician. If you’ve ruled out all the simpler causes above, a wiring issue inside the opener is the likely culprit.
Safety Warning
Never open your garage door opener motor housing while it’s plugged in. The capacitor inside can hold a dangerous electrical charge even after unplugging. Internal wiring repairs should be performed by a qualified technician.
7. Power Surge or Outage Reset
After a power outage or surge, your opener’s settings may reset to factory defaults or enter an error state. Some openers turn the light on during a reset cycle and keep it on until the initialization sequence completes.
Fix: Unplug the opener for 60 seconds, then plug it back in. Allow it to complete its full startup sequence (some openers run a brief self-test). If the light turns off after 4-5 minutes, the power interruption was the cause. Consider installing a surge protector to prevent future resets. Our battery backup guide covers surge protection options in detail.
8. Light Socket or Bulb Holder Damage
In rare cases, the light socket itself can develop an internal short that keeps the circuit closed. Corroded contacts, a cracked socket, or heat damage from using the wrong wattage bulb can all cause this.
Fix: With the opener unplugged, remove the light bulb and inspect the socket. Look for blackening, melted plastic, corrosion, or bent contacts. If the socket is damaged, the opener needs socket replacement or, in some cases, a new unit.
Why Your Opener Light Won’t Turn On at All
The opposite problem – an opener light that refuses to turn on – is usually simpler to diagnose. Here are the five most common causes.
1. Burned-Out Bulb
The simplest and most common cause. Incandescent bulbs in garage door openers have shorter lifespans than normal household bulbs because of the constant vibration from the opener motor. A standard bulb in an opener might last only 3-6 months.
Fix: Replace the bulb. Use a garage door opener-rated bulb designed to withstand vibration. Rough-service incandescent bulbs or opener-rated LED bulbs are the best options.
2. LED Bulb Interference
If you recently switched to LED bulbs and now the light won’t turn on (or turns on intermittently), the LEDs may be incompatible with your opener’s electrical system. Some LED bulbs draw too little current for the opener’s light circuit to detect.
Fix: Use LED bulbs specifically rated for garage door openers. LiftMaster and Genie both sell opener-rated LEDs. Generic LED bulbs often cause problems.
3. Light Feature Disabled
On newer openers with smart wall consoles, you can accidentally disable the light feature entirely. Some models also have a “vacation mode” or “quiet mode” that disables the light.
Fix: Check your wall console settings. On LiftMaster models, press and hold the light button for 3 seconds to toggle the light on/off. On Genie models, check the Aladdin Connect app settings.
4. Socket Corrosion or Loose Contact
Over time, the metal tab at the bottom of the light socket can flatten, losing contact with the bulb’s base. Road salt dust, humidity, and vibration all accelerate this problem in Utah garages.
Fix: With the opener unplugged, use a small flathead screwdriver to gently pry the center contact tab up about 1/8 inch. Clean any visible corrosion with fine sandpaper or a pencil eraser. Reinstall the bulb.
5. Internal Wire Disconnection
The wires connecting the logic board to the light socket can come loose from vibration. This is more common in older chain drive openers that produce more vibration than belt drives.
Fix: This requires opening the motor housing – a professional repair. If you’ve tried a new bulb, checked the socket, and verified the light feature is enabled, call a technician.
Action Step
Start with the simple fixes: replace the bulb, check if the light feature is enabled on your wall console, and try a power reset (unplug for 60 seconds). These three steps resolve about 70% of “light won’t turn on” problems without needing a service call.
Opener Light Blinking or Flashing: What the Patterns Mean
A blinking opener light is different from a light that stays on. Blink patterns are your opener’s diagnostic language – it’s trying to tell you what’s wrong. The number and pattern of blinks indicate specific error codes.
| Blink Pattern | Brand | Meaning | Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 blink | LiftMaster/Chamberlain | Sensor wire open or disconnected | Check sensor wiring connections |
| 2 blinks | LiftMaster/Chamberlain | Sensor wire shorted | Inspect wires for damage or pinching |
| 4 blinks | LiftMaster/Chamberlain | Sensor misaligned | Realign sensors |
| 10 blinks | LiftMaster/Chamberlain | Sensor obstruction detected | Clear path between sensors; clean lenses |
| Continuous blink | Genie | Safe-T-Beam sensor issue | See Genie troubleshooting guide |
| Rapid flash | All brands | LED interference with opener | Switch to opener-rated LED |
| Slow pulse | LiftMaster (battery models) | Battery backup low or expired | Replace battery |
For complete brand-specific blink code charts, see our dedicated troubleshooting guides: LiftMaster, Genie, Chamberlain, Craftsman, and Linear.
How to Adjust the Light Timer by Brand
Every major opener brand lets you adjust how long the light stays on after operation. Here are the specific steps for each brand.
LiftMaster and Chamberlain
LiftMaster and Chamberlain openers are made by the same company (Chamberlain Group), so the light timer adjustment is identical.
Models with 880LMW or 889LM wall console:
- Press the Menu button on the wall console
- Navigate to “Light Settings” or “Light Timer”
- Select your preferred duration: 1.5 minutes, 2.5 minutes, 3.5 minutes, or 4.5 minutes
- Press Enter to save
Models with basic wall button (single or dual button):
- Press and hold the light button for 5-10 seconds until the light blinks
- Each press after that cycles through duration options (the light blinks 1-4 times to indicate the setting)
- Wait 10 seconds to save the current selection
To toggle “always on” mode: Press and hold the light button for approximately 3 seconds. The light will stay on until you press and hold again.
Genie
Models with Aladdin Connect: Open the Aladdin Connect app, go to Settings, and adjust the light timer under “Light Duration.”
Models with standard wall console:
- Press and hold the light button on the wall console for 6 seconds
- The light will blink to indicate the current setting
- Release and press again within 3 seconds to change the duration
- Wait 10 seconds to save
Older Genie models (pre-2015): Light timer may not be adjustable. The default is 4.5 minutes.
Craftsman
Most Craftsman openers made after 2005 are manufactured by Chamberlain Group, so follow the LiftMaster/Chamberlain instructions above. For older Craftsman models (pre-2005):
- Locate the light timer button on the back or side of the motor unit
- Press to cycle through available durations
- The light blinks to indicate the current setting (1 blink = 1.5 min, 2 = 2.5, 3 = 3.5, 4 = 4.5)
Linear
Linear openers typically have a fixed 4.5-minute light timer. On newer models (LDCO800 and LDCO850):
- Press and hold the light button on the wall console for 5 seconds
- The light will toggle between timed mode and always-on mode
Linear’s wall-mount openers may have light timer adjustments through the onboard menu – consult your model’s manual.
Pro Tip
If you can’t find your opener’s manual, search “[brand name] [model number] manual PDF” online. Most manufacturers maintain free online manuals. You can find your model number on a label on the back or side of the motor unit. Our model number identification guide shows you exactly where to look for every brand.
LED Bulbs and Opener Compatibility
LED bulbs cause more garage door opener light problems than any other single factor. The issue is electromagnetic interference (EMI): some LED bulbs emit radio-frequency noise that interferes with the opener’s receiver, remote signals, and internal electronics.
Common LED-related light problems:
- Light flickers or strobes
- Light stays on but is dim
- Light turns on by itself at random times
- Remote range decreases when LED bulbs are installed
- Keypad stops responding
The solution is straightforward: use LED bulbs specifically designed for garage door openers. These bulbs include RF shielding that prevents interference. Standard household LEDs – even “vibration-resistant” models – can still cause problems.
For a comprehensive guide to choosing the right bulb, see our complete LED bulb and opener guide. If you’re also experiencing remote range problems, LED interference is very likely the cause.
Quick Diagnostic Table: Identify Your Light Problem
| Symptom | Most Likely Cause | DIY Fix? | Typical Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Light stays on indefinitely | Light timer set to “always on” or wall button stuck | Yes | $0 (settings) or $15-$40 (button) |
| Light stays on + door won’t close | Safety sensor misalignment | Yes | $0 (realign) or $85-$175 (pro) |
| Light stays on + remote doesn’t work | Wall button stuck or short circuit | Yes | $15-$65 (new button/wiring) |
| Light turns on randomly | Motion sensor or LED interference | Yes | $0 (disable) or $10-$25 (new bulb) |
| Light stays on + erratic behavior | Logic board malfunction | No | $150-$400 |
| Light stays on after power outage | Settings reset / initialization stuck | Yes | $0 (power cycle) |
| Light blinks specific pattern | Error code (see blink chart above) | Depends on code | $0-$400+ |
| Light won’t turn on at all | Burned bulb or disabled light feature | Yes | $5-$15 (new bulb) |
| Light flickers or strobes | LED bulb interference | Yes | $10-$25 (opener-rated LED) |
| Light is on but very dim | Socket corrosion or wrong bulb type | Yes | $0-$15 (clean socket or new bulb) |
Repair Cost Guide for Opener Light Problems
Most opener light problems are inexpensive to fix. Here is what to expect if you need professional help.
| Service | Typical Cost Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Diagnostic service call | $75-$125 | Applied to repair cost |
| Sensor realignment | $85-$175 | Includes testing and adjustment |
| Sensor replacement (pair) | $125-$250 | Parts + labor |
| Wall button replacement | $65-$175 | Basic button vs smart console |
| Wiring repair | $100-$250 | Depends on wire run length |
| Logic board replacement | $150-$400 | Board cost + labor; varies by brand |
| Light socket replacement | $75-$150 | Socket + labor |
| Full opener replacement | $350-$800+ | When repair exceeds 50% of new unit |
Pro Tip
Use the 50% rule: if the repair cost exceeds 50% of a new opener’s installed price, replacement is usually the better investment, especially if your opener is over 10-15 years old. A new opener comes with a full warranty, modern safety features, and smart home integration. See our repair vs. replace opener guide for a complete decision framework.
Advanced Door offers free estimates on all opener repairs and replacements. Call (844) 971-3667 to schedule a diagnostic visit. We service all major brands including LiftMaster, Genie, Chamberlain, Craftsman, and Linear across Utah.
Safe DIY Checks Before Calling a Pro
Before scheduling a service call, try these safe checks that require no tools and no electrical knowledge. They resolve the majority of opener light problems.
- Power cycle the opener: Unplug it from the ceiling outlet for 60 seconds, then plug it back in. This resets the logic board and clears most temporary glitches.
- Check the light timer setting: Press and hold the light button on your wall console for 3-5 seconds. If the light turns off, you accidentally had it in “always on” mode.
- Inspect your sensors: Check both safety sensors at the bottom of the door frame. Both LEDs should be steady (not blinking). Clean the lenses with a soft cloth.
- Replace the bulb: Remove the current bulb and install a new opener-rated bulb. If using LEDs, make sure they’re specifically designed for garage door openers.
- Disconnect the wall button: Remove the two low-voltage wires from the back of the opener’s wall button terminals. If the light turns off, the wall button or its wiring is the problem.
- Check for motion sensor activation: If your opener has a motion-activated light feature, disable it through the wall console menu and see if the problem stops.
- Look for debris near sensors: Spider webs, leaves, and dust on sensor lenses are extremely common in Utah garages, especially in fall and spring.
Safety Warning
All DIY checks should be done with the opener unplugged when touching any wires or the motor housing. The wall button wires are low-voltage (typically 18-22V DC) and safe to handle, but always unplug first as a precaution. Never attempt to open the motor housing or work on high-voltage wiring yourself.
How Utah’s Climate Affects Opener Lights and Electronics
Utah’s extreme temperature range and unique environmental conditions create specific opener light challenges that homeowners in other states don’t face.
Cold Weather Effects (October – March)
- LED bulb cold start: LED bulbs can be dim or slow to reach full brightness below 0 degrees F. In Cache Valley, Park City, and other mountain areas, this can look like a bulb failure even when the bulb is fine. It will warm up and brighten after a few minutes.
- Sensor misalignment from freeze-thaw: As concrete floors and door frames expand and contract through freeze-thaw cycles, safety sensor brackets can shift enough to trigger misalignment warnings – including the “light stays on” symptom. This is especially common along the Wasatch Front where daily temperature swings of 30-40 degrees are normal.
- Condensation on sensors: When warm garage air meets cold sensor housings, condensation can form on sensor lenses and block the beam. This is a common fall and spring problem in Utah’s mountain communities.
Heat and Dust Effects (May – September)
- Logic board heat stress: Garage temperatures above 130 degrees F can stress opener electronics. South-facing garages in St. George, Washington County, and the Wasatch Front regularly exceed this in summer. Heat-stressed logic boards may behave erratically, including keeping lights on.
- Dust accumulation: Utah’s dry climate and construction activity create significant dust, especially in rapidly growing areas like Lehi, Eagle Mountain, Saratoga Springs, and Herriman. Dust on sensor lenses is the #1 cause of sensor-related light issues in Utah.
- Insect and spider interference: Black widows, hobo spiders, and other spiders love the warm, sheltered area around garage door sensors. Webs across the sensor beam path will keep the light on as a misalignment warning. Our pest prevention guide covers keeping spiders away from sensors.
Power and Electrical Issues
- Monsoon power surges (July – September): Utah’s monsoon season brings lightning storms that cause power surges. These can damage logic boards or reset opener settings, causing the light to stay on. Install a surge protector on your opener’s power outlet.
- Road salt and corrosion: UDOT’s heavy road salt use along the Wasatch Front creates a corrosive environment that affects light socket contacts, sensor wiring, and wall button connections. If you live near I-15, I-215, Bangerter Highway, or SR-201, inspect connections annually.
Utah Note
The single most common opener light complaint in Utah is sensor-related. Our technicians see more sensor issues caused by dust, spiders, and temperature-related misalignment than all other light problems combined. Before calling for service, clean your sensor lenses with a soft cloth and check for spider webs – this simple step fixes the problem about 40% of the time.
When to Call a Professional
Call a garage door technician if:
- The light stays on after you’ve tried all the DIY checks above
- The light stays on AND the opener is behaving erratically (random movement, unresponsive remote, unusual noises)
- You smell burning plastic or see scorch marks near the light socket
- The light stays on after a power surge or lightning strike
- Disconnecting the wall button wires doesn’t turn the light off (indicates internal wiring issue)
- Your opener is over 15 years old and developing multiple problems
- You’ve replaced the bulb and the new one immediately burns out (socket or wiring problem)
Advanced Door services all major opener brands across Utah. Our technicians carry diagnostic equipment and replacement parts for same-day repairs in most cases. Call (844) 971-3667 for a free estimate – no pressure, no hidden fees.
Action Step
If your opener light has been on for more than 24 hours continuously, call a technician. Running the light continuously accelerates bulb failure, increases electricity usage, and may indicate an underlying electrical problem that could become a fire hazard in extreme cases. Don’t wait to diagnose this one.
7 Common Mistakes That Make Light Problems Worse
- Using standard household LED bulbs: Non-opener-rated LEDs cause more opener problems than they solve. The RF interference affects remotes, keypads, and the opener’s internal electronics. Always use opener-rated LEDs or rough-service incandescent bulbs.
- Ignoring the sensor connection: When the light stays on, most people assume it’s a light problem. In reality, it’s often the opener signaling a sensor issue. Always check sensors first.
- Removing the bulb as a “fix”: If the light won’t turn off, simply removing the bulb masks the real problem. The underlying electrical issue (stuck button, logic board, wiring) is still present and may affect other opener functions.
- Using too-high-wattage bulbs: Most openers are rated for 60W or 100W maximum. Using a higher-wattage bulb generates excess heat that can damage the socket, wiring, and nearby plastic components. Check the label near the light socket for the maximum rating.
- Spraying WD-40 on sensors: When cleaning sensors, use only a soft dry cloth or glass cleaner on a cloth. WD-40 and other lubricants leave a film that attracts more dust and can damage the lens coating.
- Taping over the light: Covering the light with tape or duct tape is a fire hazard. Incandescent bulbs generate significant heat, and tape adhesive near a hot bulb can melt, smoke, or ignite. If the light bothers you, disconnect it properly – don’t cover it.
- Ignoring the 50% rule: Spending $300 to repair a 20-year-old opener’s wiring and logic board when a new opener costs $400-$600 installed is poor economics. Factor in age, reliability, safety features, and warranty when deciding between repair and replacement.
Safety Warning
Never bypass or disable the safety sensors to “fix” a light that stays on. The sensors are a critical safety system required by federal law (UL 325). Disabling them creates a serious risk of the door closing on a person, pet, or vehicle. Fix the sensor problem properly instead.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my garage door opener light stay on all the time?
The most common causes are a light timer set to ‘always on’ mode, misaligned safety sensors, a stuck wall button, or a motion sensor that’s being triggered. Start by pressing and holding the light button on your wall console for 3 seconds to toggle out of always-on mode, then check your sensors for alignment and obstructions.
How do I turn off the light on my garage door opener?
Press the light button on your wall console once for a quick on/off toggle. If that doesn’t work, press and hold the light button for 3-5 seconds to exit ‘always on’ mode. On LiftMaster and Chamberlain models with smart consoles, you can also disable the light through the settings menu.
Why does my garage door opener light come on by itself?
Random light activation is usually caused by a motion sensor (if your opener has one), LED bulb electromagnetic interference, or a loose wall button connection. Disable the motion sensor feature through your wall console, switch to an opener-rated LED bulb, and check the wall button wiring connections.
Is it bad to leave the garage door opener light on all the time?
Running the light continuously won’t damage the opener itself, but it will burn through bulbs faster (especially incandescent), increase your electricity usage, and may indicate an underlying electrical problem that needs attention. If the light is staying on against your wishes, diagnose and fix the root cause rather than ignoring it.
Why is my garage door opener light blinking?
A blinking light is an error code. The number of blinks indicates the specific problem. On LiftMaster/Chamberlain openers: 1 blink = sensor wire open, 2 blinks = sensor wire shorted, 4 blinks = sensor misaligned, 10 blinks = sensor obstruction. On Genie openers, a continuous blink indicates a Safe-T-Beam sensor problem. See our brand-specific troubleshooting guides for complete blink code charts.
Can LED bulbs cause my opener light to stay on?
Yes. LED bulbs that aren’t rated for garage door openers can cause a range of light problems including staying on, flickering, random activation, and dimming. The electromagnetic interference from standard LEDs can also affect your remote range and keypad function. Switch to opener-rated LED bulbs to solve these issues.
How much does it cost to fix a garage door opener light?
Most light problems are free to fix (settings adjustment, bulb replacement, sensor cleaning). If you need professional service: sensor realignment runs $85-$175, wall button replacement $65-$175, wiring repair $100-$250, and logic board replacement $150-$400. Call (844) 971-3667 for a free estimate.
Why does my garage door opener light turn on when it’s cold?
Cold weather causes sensor brackets to shift from concrete expansion/contraction, which can trigger the opener’s sensor warning (light stays on). Condensation on cold sensor lenses can also block the beam. Clean your sensors, check alignment, and if the problem persists through winter, have a technician adjust the sensor brackets with slightly more play to accommodate seasonal movement.
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