Garage Door Threshold Seal: The Complete Installation and Buying Guide for Utah Homeowners

A garage door threshold seal is a rubber or vinyl strip that attaches to the garage floor beneath the door, creating a watertight barrier against rain, snowmelt, pests, dust, and cold drafts. Professional threshold seal installation typically costs between $150 and $350, while DIY kits run $30 to $80. Advanced Door – Utah’s #1 rated garage door company with 30,000+ five-star reviews and the only lifetime warranty on parts and labor in the state – installs threshold seals and complete weatherproofing systems across Utah. Call (844) 971-3667 for a free estimate. Same-day service available.

Last updated: June 2026

What Is a Garage Door Threshold Seal?

A garage door threshold seal is a raised rubber or vinyl strip that bonds directly to your garage floor, sitting underneath the door when it closes. Unlike a bottom seal (which hangs from the door itself), a threshold seal stays fixed to the concrete and creates a dam-like barrier that the door presses down against.

Think of it like a shower threshold. When water, snow, leaves, or pests try to push under your garage door, the raised profile of the threshold seal blocks them. The door’s own weight compresses against the seal, creating a tight closure along the entire width of the opening.

Threshold seals solve a problem that bottom seals alone often cannot: uneven garage floors. Many garage floors in Utah have settled, cracked, or developed low spots over the years. Even a brand new bottom seal can leave gaps where the floor dips. A threshold seal fills those gaps from the floor side, giving you a complete barrier.

Most threshold seals are between 3/8 inch and 1 inch tall, made from durable EPDM rubber or heavy-duty vinyl, and designed to handle vehicle traffic driving over them thousands of times. They attach to the floor with construction-grade adhesive, concrete screws, or both.

Threshold Seal vs Bottom Seal vs Weatherstripping: What’s the Difference?

Homeowners often confuse these three products. Each serves a different purpose and attaches to a different part of the system. Here is how they compare:

For the best protection, you want all three working together. The weatherstripping seals the sides and top, the bottom seal provides flexible closure at the base of the door, and the threshold seal creates a raised barrier on the floor that catches anything the other two miss.

If you had to prioritize one, start with the threshold seal if water intrusion is your main problem, or the bottom seal if drafts and pests are the bigger concern.

8 Signs You Need a Threshold Seal

Not every garage needs a threshold seal, but most Utah garages benefit significantly from one. Here are the clearest signs you need one installed:

1. Water puddles inside your garage after rain or snowmelt. If you find standing water near the garage door after storms or during spring thaw, water is flowing under the door. A threshold seal creates a dam that stops this at the source.

2. You see daylight under your closed garage door. Close the door and look from inside. If you see light coming through at the bottom, you have gaps that let in water, pests, dust, and cold air. Even small gaps of 1/4 inch can let in surprising amounts of debris.

3. Leaves, dirt, or debris blow into your garage. Utah’s canyon winds and dry conditions push fine dust and leaves under garage doors constantly. A threshold seal blocks particulate intrusion that a bottom seal alone cannot catch.

4. You have found mice, insects, or snakes in your garage. Mice can squeeze through a gap as small as 1/4 inch. Insects, spiders, and even small snakes regularly enter garages through the bottom gap. A threshold seal eliminates this entry point.

5. Your garage floor has settled or cracked. Concrete settling is extremely common in Utah, especially in newer construction areas like Eagle Mountain, Saratoga Springs, Herriman, and Vineyard where the soil is still compacting. When the floor drops even slightly, the door cannot seal against it. A threshold seal bridges the gap.

6. Your garage feels noticeably colder than the rest of the house. If cold air is drafting in from under the door – especially during Utah’s winters when temperatures drop below zero in Cache Valley, the Wasatch Front, and mountain communities – a threshold seal can significantly reduce heat loss.

7. You use your garage as a workshop, gym, or living space. Any finished or semi-finished garage space needs complete sealing. If you are working out, building projects, or storing sensitive items in your garage, a threshold seal keeps the environment cleaner and more comfortable.

8. Your driveway slopes toward the garage. Many Utah driveways, especially in foothill communities from Draper to North Ogden, slope toward the garage. During heavy rain or rapid snowmelt, water naturally flows into the garage. A threshold seal acts as a dam to redirect that flow.

Types of Threshold Seals

Threshold seals come in several profiles and materials. The right choice depends on your gap size, traffic level, climate exposure, and budget.

By Profile Shape

Standard dome profile. The most common type. A rounded hump that rises 3/8 to 3/4 inch above the floor. The door compresses against the dome when closed, and vehicles drive over the gentle slope easily. Works well for gaps up to 1/2 inch.

High-profile dam. Taller seals (3/4 to 1 inch) designed for larger gaps or serious water intrusion problems. These create a more aggressive barrier but can cause a slight bump when driving over them. Best for garages where water flooding is the primary concern.

Tapered profile. Gradually slopes up from the driveway side and drops off sharply on the garage side. This design minimizes the bump when driving over while still providing a good seal. Popular for everyday residential use.

Double-fin profile. Features two raised ridges instead of one dome. The door’s bottom seal sits between the fins, creating a channel seal. This provides the tightest closure but requires more precise positioning during installation.

By Material

EPDM rubber. The gold standard for threshold seals. EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) handles temperature extremes from -40 to 250 degrees Fahrenheit, resists UV degradation, and bounces back after thousands of vehicle passes. This is the best material for Utah’s temperature swings.

Heavy-duty vinyl. Less expensive than EPDM but still durable. Works well in moderate climates but can become stiff and brittle in extreme cold. In Cache Valley or Park City where temperatures regularly drop below zero, EPDM is the better choice.

Recycled rubber. Budget-friendly option made from recycled tires. Heavier and stiffer than EPDM but adequate for basic water and pest blocking. Can have a slight tire smell initially.

How to Choose the Right Threshold Seal

Before buying a threshold seal, you need three measurements and answers to a few key questions.

Measure Your Gap

Close your garage door completely. Using a tape measure and flashlight, measure the largest gap between the bottom of the door (or bottom seal) and the floor. Measure in at least five spots across the full width: both ends, both quarter points, and the center. The floor is rarely perfectly level, so you may find gaps ranging from zero to over an inch.

Your threshold seal should be at least as tall as your largest gap, ideally 1/4 inch taller. If the gap varies significantly (more than 1/2 inch difference across the width), you may need a taller seal to cover the worst spots, or professional floor leveling if the variation is extreme.

Measure Your Door Width

Threshold seals are sold by the foot or in standard lengths (8, 10, 16, and 20 feet). Measure the full width of your garage door opening – not the door itself, but the opening from frame to frame. Standard single-car doors are 8 to 10 feet wide. Standard double-car doors are 16 to 18 feet wide. Buy a seal at least as wide as your opening.

Check Your Floor Surface

The type of floor surface determines your adhesive requirements:

• Bare concrete: Standard polyurethane adhesive works well. Most common scenario.
• Sealed or painted concrete: Needs mechanical fastening (concrete screws) or specialty adhesive rated for sealed surfaces.
• Epoxy-coated floors: Adhesive alone usually fails on epoxy. Must use concrete screws through the epoxy into the slab.
• Asphalt: Requires asphalt-compatible adhesive. Standard concrete adhesive will not bond properly.
• Pavers or brick: Very difficult to seal. Professional installation recommended due to uneven surfaces and grout lines.

Consider Your Traffic Pattern

If vehicles drive over the threshold multiple times daily, choose a low-profile (3/8 to 1/2 inch) EPDM seal with a tapered entry. Taller seals work better for garages used primarily for storage or workshop space where vehicles do not enter frequently.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Gathering everything before you start saves time and frustration. Here is the complete list:

Materials:

• Threshold seal (measured to your door width plus 2 inches for trimming)
• Polyurethane construction adhesive (one tube per 8 feet of seal)
• Concrete screws, 1-1/2 inch (optional but recommended for Utah, one every 12 inches)
• Degreaser or concrete cleaner (Simple Green, TSP, or equivalent)
• Clean rags or paper towels

Tools:

• Tape measure
• Chalk line or straight edge
• Utility knife or heavy scissors (for cutting seal to length)
• Caulk gun (for adhesive)
• Wire brush or stiff bristle brush (for floor prep)
• Drill with masonry bit (if using concrete screws)
• Safety glasses
• Work gloves
• Broom and dustpan

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

A threshold seal installation is a manageable DIY project that takes most homeowners 1 to 2 hours. Follow these steps for a professional result.

Step 1: Close the Garage Door and Mark the Position

Close your garage door completely. Using a chalk line or pencil, mark the outside edge of the door on the garage floor. This line shows you exactly where the door meets the floor. Your threshold seal will be positioned so the door’s bottom seal compresses onto the top of the threshold when closed.

Step 2: Open the Door and Clean the Floor

Open the garage door fully to give yourself room to work. Sweep the area thoroughly, removing all dirt, debris, and loose material. Then scrub the floor with degreaser or concrete cleaner using a wire brush. Oil stains, road salt residue, paint drips, and concrete dust all prevent adhesive from bonding. Rinse with clean water and let the surface dry completely – this is critical.

Step 3: Dry-Fit the Seal

Lay the threshold seal in position along your chalk line without adhesive. Close the door onto it to verify the fit. Check that the door’s bottom seal compresses evenly against the threshold along the entire width. Adjust the position forward or backward until you get a snug, even compression.

Mark the final position on both ends with a pencil. If the seal is too long, mark where to trim it. You want the seal to extend the full width of the opening, ideally tucking slightly into or against the door frame on each side.

Step 4: Cut the Seal to Length

Using a sharp utility knife, cut the seal to your marked length. EPDM rubber cuts cleanly with a straight blade. For thicker seals, make multiple passes rather than trying to cut through in one stroke. A straight edge or square helps keep the cut clean.

Step 5: Apply Adhesive

Load a tube of polyurethane construction adhesive into your caulk gun. Apply a continuous zigzag bead of adhesive to the floor along the full length of the installation area. The zigzag pattern provides better coverage than straight lines. Apply the adhesive approximately 1/4 inch thick – enough to fill small surface imperfections but not so much that it squeezes out the sides.

Step 6: Position the Seal

Carefully place the threshold seal onto the adhesive, aligning it with your pencil marks. Press the seal firmly into the adhesive along its entire length. Walk on it, pressing with your full weight, to ensure full contact between the seal, adhesive, and concrete.

Step 7: Add Mechanical Fasteners (Recommended)

While the adhesive provides the primary bond, concrete screws add insurance. Drill pilot holes through the seal and into the concrete every 12 inches using a masonry bit. Then drive 1-1/2 inch concrete screws (such as Tapcon brand) until they are snug but not over-tightened. Over-tightening will crush the seal and create low spots.

Step 8: Clean Up Excess Adhesive

Wipe away any adhesive that squeezed out from the sides using a rag dampened with mineral spirits. Uncured polyurethane adhesive is much easier to clean now than after it hardens. Check both the driveway side and garage side of the seal.

Step 9: Test the Seal

Close the garage door and check the compression from inside. The door’s bottom seal should press firmly and evenly against the threshold seal along the entire width. Look for any light gaps. If you find gaps, note their location – you may need to adjust the bottom seal or add a small bead of silicone caulk at those spots.

Step 10: Allow Full Cure Time

Keep the door closed for 24 hours to let the adhesive cure with the door’s weight pressing the seal in place. Do not drive over the seal during this curing period. After 24 hours, the seal is ready for full vehicle traffic.

Installation on Different Surfaces

Not all garage floors are the same. Here is how to handle the most common surface types in Utah garages.

Bare Concrete (Most Common)

Standard polyurethane adhesive bonds well to clean, dry bare concrete. Follow the standard installation steps above. This is the easiest and most reliable surface for threshold seal installation. Most Utah garages have bare concrete floors.

Sealed or Painted Concrete

Sealers and paint create a smooth surface that adhesive cannot grip effectively. You have two options: sand the sealed area with 60-grit sandpaper to create texture for adhesive bonding, or skip adhesive entirely and rely on concrete screws every 8 inches instead of every 12. Sanding plus adhesive plus screws gives the most reliable result.

Epoxy-Coated Floors

Epoxy garage floors are increasingly popular in Utah, especially in newer homes and finished garages. Unfortunately, most adhesives will not stick to epoxy long term. The solution is to use concrete screws as the primary fastener, with a bead of silicone (not polyurethane) between the seal and epoxy for water blocking. Accept that the screws are doing the structural work.

Asphalt Driveways

If your garage meets an asphalt driveway (less common in Utah but found in some older properties), use an asphalt-compatible adhesive such as Henry brand asphalt sealant. Standard polyurethane adhesive will not bond to asphalt. Screws cannot be used in asphalt – adhesive is your only option.

Cracked or Damaged Concrete

Utah’s freeze-thaw cycles cause significant concrete cracking, especially in unheated garages. Before installing a threshold seal over cracked concrete, fill any cracks wider than 1/4 inch with concrete crack filler and let it cure for 24 hours. The threshold seal cannot bridge large cracks effectively and will leave gaps.

If the floor has heaved (one side higher than the other at a crack), you may need to grind down the high side or use a self-leveling compound to create a reasonably flat surface. For severe floor damage, call us at (844) 971-3667 for an assessment. The floor issue may be causing other problems with your door’s closure that need professional attention.

7 Common Installation Mistakes

These mistakes account for the majority of threshold seal failures. Avoid them and your seal should last 5 to 10 years.

1. Skipping floor cleaning. The single biggest cause of seal failure. Adhesive will not bond to dirty, oily, or salt-covered concrete. Clean the floor thoroughly and let it dry completely before applying adhesive. This step alone determines whether your seal lasts months or years.

2. Installing on a wet surface. Polyurethane adhesive needs dry concrete to bond. Even surface moisture from morning dew can prevent proper adhesion. If in doubt, tape a piece of plastic wrap to the floor for an hour. If moisture forms underneath, the concrete is too wet.

3. Wrong adhesive type. Not all construction adhesives work for this application. Use polyurethane-based adhesive (such as Loctite PL Premium or similar) specifically rated for concrete bonding. Silicone alone is flexible but has no structural strength. Standard latex construction adhesive fails under vehicle traffic.

4. Positioning too far from the door. If the threshold seal is more than 1/2 inch from where the door’s bottom seal contacts the floor, you will not get proper compression. Always dry-fit with the door closed before committing to a position.

5. Not using mechanical fasteners. Adhesive alone can work in mild climates, but Utah’s freeze-thaw cycles expand and contract the concrete enough to break adhesive bonds over time. Adding concrete screws every 12 inches provides insurance that keeps the seal in place even if adhesive weakens.

6. Over-tightening screws. Cranking down concrete screws crushes the rubber seal, creating valleys where water pools and flows through. Tighten until snug, then stop. The screw head should sit flush with or slightly below the top of the seal.

7. Cutting too short. An undersized threshold seal leaves gaps at the ends where water and pests enter. Always measure the full opening width and cut the seal to reach both sides. It is better to have a slightly tight fit against the door frame than to leave a gap.

Utah-Specific Considerations

Utah’s climate creates unique challenges for garage door threshold seals. Here is what local homeowners need to know.

Snowmelt and Spring Runoff

Utah’s snowmelt season (March through May, later in mountain communities) is the number one reason homeowners install threshold seals. Driveways that slope toward the garage channel meltwater directly into the opening. A threshold seal acts as a dam, redirecting that water to flow sideways and away from the garage.

In foothill communities like Draper’s Suncrest, North Ogden, Alpine, and mountain towns like Park City and Brian Head, snowmelt can overwhelm even standard threshold seals. Consider a high-profile (3/4 to 1 inch) seal in these areas, and ensure your driveway drainage is properly graded as well.

Road Salt and Magnesium Chloride

UDOT and local municipalities spread massive amounts of road salt and magnesium chloride on Utah roads from November through March. This corrosive material gets tracked into garages on vehicle tires and can degrade vinyl threshold seals within 2 to 3 years. EPDM rubber resists salt corrosion far better.

Road salt residue also builds up on the concrete beneath and around the threshold seal. During your spring garage maintenance, clean around the seal with fresh water to flush away accumulated salt before it attacks the adhesive bond.

Temperature Extremes

Utah sees temperatures from well below zero in Cache Valley winters to over 100 degrees in St. George summers. This 120+ degree annual range causes concrete to expand and contract significantly, which stresses adhesive bonds and can shift or crack rigid seals.

EPDM rubber handles this range without issue (rated -40 to 250 degrees). Vinyl seals become stiff and brittle in cold, potentially cracking during January cold snaps. In mountain communities above 6,000 feet (Park City, Brian Head, Cedar City, Heber), always choose EPDM.

Desert Dust and Sand (Southern Utah)

In St. George, Hurricane, Ivins, and Washington County, fine red sand and desert dust blow into garages constantly. A threshold seal combined with a quality bottom seal dramatically reduces the amount of dust that enters. This is especially important for garages used as workshops or for vehicle storage.

Canyon Winds

Utah’s canyon mouths (Emigration Canyon, Parleys Canyon, Ogden Canyon, Spanish Fork Canyon, Logan Canyon) experience powerful wind events that can drive rain and snow horizontally under garage doors. In these areas, a threshold seal provides a critical barrier that the bottom seal alone cannot match, since wind-driven water pushes past flexible seals that rely only on gravity and compression.

Pest Pressure

Utah is home to field mice, voles, black widow spiders, hobo spiders, bark scorpions (southern Utah), and various insects that all seek garage shelter. A properly installed threshold seal eliminates the floor-level entry point that these pests commonly use. For complete pest protection, pair the threshold seal with good weatherstripping on the sides and top.

Concrete Settling in New Construction

Many Utah communities are experiencing rapid growth: Eagle Mountain, Saratoga Springs, Herriman, Vineyard, Daybreak, and Lehi’s Silicon Slopes corridor. Homes built in the last 5 to 10 years in these areas often have garage floors that have settled 1/4 to 1/2 inch or more as the underlying soil compacts. This settling creates uneven gaps under the door that worsen over time. A threshold seal is the most cost-effective solution for floor-level settling. For severe settling (over 1 inch), the concrete may need professional mud-jacking or the door’s travel limits may need adjustment.

Maintenance and Lifespan

A quality EPDM threshold seal installed correctly should last 5 to 10 years in Utah conditions. Vinyl seals typically last 3 to 5 years. Here is how to maximize your seal’s lifespan.

Seasonal Inspection Schedule

Spring (March-April): After the last snow, inspect the seal for winter damage. Look for sections that have pulled away from the concrete, cracked, or been damaged by snowblower blades. Clean accumulated road salt from around the seal. This is the most important inspection of the year.

Summer (June-July): Check for UV degradation on seals exposed to direct sunlight (south and west-facing garages). Look for surface cracking or hardening. Summer maintenance is also a good time to verify the adhesive bond is holding.

Fall (September-October): Before winter arrives, confirm the seal is intact and fully bonded. Re-adhere any sections that are lifting. This is your last chance to make repairs before snow and salt arrive. Check the complete fall maintenance checklist while you are at it.

Winter (December-January): Avoid chipping ice off the threshold seal with metal tools, which can gouge or tear the rubber. Use warm water to melt ice buildup. Do not apply rock salt directly to the seal.

Cleaning

Clean the threshold seal with mild soap and water during seasonal inspections. Remove debris that accumulates against it. A stiff-bristle brush works well for scrubbing dirt from the seal’s textured surface. Avoid petroleum-based solvents, which can degrade rubber over time.

Repair vs Replacement

Small sections that peel up can be re-adhered with fresh adhesive and weighted down for 24 hours. Small tears can be sealed with rubber adhesive. However, if the seal is cracked in multiple places, has lost its flexibility (does not bounce back when pressed), or has compressed permanently flat, it is time for full replacement.

DIY vs Professional Installation

Threshold seal installation is one of the more DIY-friendly garage door projects. But there are situations where professional installation makes more sense.

When DIY Works Well

• Bare concrete floor in good condition
• Relatively flat floor (less than 1/4 inch variation across the width)
• Standard single or double garage door
• You have basic tools and are comfortable drilling into concrete
• Weather conditions are cooperative (dry, above 40 degrees)

When to Call a Professional

• Severely cracked or heaved concrete that needs repair first
• Epoxy-coated or specialty flooring
• Gaps larger than 1 inch (may indicate a track alignment issue or spring balance problem causing the door to sit unevenly)
• Radiant-heated floors where drilling risks hitting tubing
• You want the threshold seal installed as part of a complete door weatherproofing or a bottom seal replacement
• Multiple garage doors that need sealing efficiently

A professional can also identify whether your travel limits need adjusting so the door closes fully against the seal, or whether an old bottom seal is contributing to the gap problem.

Call (844) 971-3667 for a Free Estimate

What Does a Threshold Seal Cost?

Threshold seal costs depend on the material, length, and whether you install it yourself or hire a professional.

DIY materials only: $30 to $80 for the seal plus adhesive and screws. EPDM seals for a standard 16-foot double door typically run $40 to $60. Single-car doors cost $20 to $35 for the seal alone.

Professional installation: $150 to $350 including materials. The higher end covers situations requiring floor prep, specialty surfaces, or installation combined with bottom seal replacement.

Compared to the cost of water damage to stored items, vehicle corrosion from moisture, or pest control services, a threshold seal is one of the most affordable protective upgrades you can make to your garage. A single water intrusion event that damages stored belongings or tools can easily exceed the cost of a professionally installed threshold seal.

How a Threshold Seal Works with Your Door System

A threshold seal does not work in isolation. It interacts with several other components of your garage door system.

Bottom seal compatibility. Your door’s bottom seal should compress against the threshold when the door closes. If your bottom seal is old, brittle, or flattened, replacing both at the same time gives the best results. The two seals work as a team.

Travel limit adjustment. After installing a threshold seal, the effective floor level is slightly higher. Your garage door opener’s down travel limit may need a minor adjustment to ensure the door closes fully against the new seal without slamming or bouncing. If the door hits the threshold seal too hard, it may trigger the auto-reverse safety feature.

Auto-reverse sensitivity. If your door reverses when it contacts the new threshold seal, the force settings may need adjustment. This is a delicate balance: you want enough force to compress the seal but not so much that you compromise the safety features that protect people and objects.

Weatherstripping system. A threshold seal addresses the bottom gap. For complete weather protection, pair it with side and top weatherstripping. If you are insulating your garage door, complete sealing around the entire perimeter makes the insulation significantly more effective.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install a threshold seal myself?

Yes. Threshold seal installation is a manageable DIY project for most homeowners. It requires basic tools, a clean floor surface, construction adhesive, and about 1 to 2 hours of work. The most critical step is thorough floor cleaning before applying adhesive. If your floor has major cracks, an epoxy coating, or radiant heating, consider professional installation.

How long does a garage door threshold seal last?

EPDM rubber threshold seals typically last 5 to 10 years in Utah conditions. Vinyl seals last 3 to 5 years. Lifespan depends on material quality, UV exposure, vehicle traffic frequency, proper installation, and how well you maintain the seal. Road salt exposure and extreme temperature swings are the biggest factors that shorten lifespan in Utah.

What is the difference between a threshold seal and a bottom seal?

A threshold seal attaches to the garage floor and stays fixed in place. A bottom seal attaches to the bottom edge of the door itself and moves with the door. They serve complementary purposes: the bottom seal provides flexible closure, while the threshold seal creates a raised barrier on the floor. Used together, they provide the best protection.

Will a threshold seal stop water from coming into my garage?

A properly installed threshold seal stops most water intrusion from rain and snowmelt. It creates a dam-like barrier that diverts water sideways. However, it cannot stop flooding from severe storms or standing water that rises above the seal height. For garages in flood-prone areas or at the bottom of steep driveways, additional drainage solutions such as a trench drain may be needed alongside the threshold seal.

Do I need a threshold seal if I already have a new bottom seal?

A new bottom seal helps, but it cannot compensate for an uneven or settled garage floor. If your floor has dips, cracks, or low spots, the bottom seal will leave gaps where it cannot make contact. A threshold seal fills those gaps from below. Even with a perfect floor, the threshold seal adds a second layer of protection and extends the life of your bottom seal by reducing the wear on it.

Can vehicles drive over a threshold seal?

Yes. Threshold seals are specifically designed for vehicle traffic. The low-profile, tapered design allows cars, trucks, and SUVs to drive over them smoothly without damage. Quality EPDM seals withstand tens of thousands of vehicle passes. You will feel a slight bump, similar to driving over a speed bump hump, but it does not affect traction or vehicle clearance.

What is the best material for a threshold seal in Utah?

EPDM rubber is the best material for Utah. It handles the state’s extreme temperature range (below zero winters to 100+ degree summers), resists UV degradation, tolerates road salt exposure, and maintains flexibility through freeze-thaw cycles. Vinyl is cheaper but becomes brittle in cold and degrades faster. The extra cost of EPDM pays for itself with significantly longer life.

How do I remove an old threshold seal?

Start by cutting the old seal into 2 to 3 foot sections with a utility knife for easier handling. Pry each section up with a flat pry bar or wide putty knife. Remove as much old adhesive as possible using a floor scraper or chisel. For stubborn adhesive residue, a heat gun softens it for easier removal. Clean the concrete thoroughly with degreaser before installing the new seal. The old concrete screws can usually be removed with a drill or left in place if they do not interfere with the new seal’s position.