Garage Door Extension Springs: The Complete Guide for Utah Homeowners

Garage door extension springs are the coil springs mounted on either side of your garage door, running parallel to the horizontal tracks. They stretch and contract to counterbalance the door’s weight, making it light enough to open by hand or with an opener. Extension springs are common in older Utah homes, single-car garages, and lightweight doors, but they require safety cables and regular inspection to operate safely. Advanced Door – Utah’s #1 rated garage door company with a 4.9-star rating across 30,000+ reviews – services, replaces, and converts extension spring systems throughout Utah. If your extension springs show signs of wear, stretching, or rust, call (844) 971-3667 for same-day service.

Last updated: May 2026

If your garage door uses extension springs, you’re not alone. Millions of garage doors across Utah – especially in homes built before 2000 – rely on extension spring systems. These springs mount along the horizontal tracks on both sides of your door, stretching to store energy when the door closes and releasing it to help lift the door open.

While extension springs are simple and affordable, they also present unique safety challenges that torsion springs don’t. Understanding how your extension springs work, what to watch for, and when it’s time for replacement or conversion can save you money, prevent injuries, and keep your garage door operating safely for years.

This guide covers everything Utah homeowners need to know about extension spring systems – from how they work and what types exist to maintenance, replacement, safety cables, and the increasingly popular extension-to-torsion conversion.

What Are Garage Door Extension Springs?

Extension springs are one of two main spring types used in residential garage door systems. Unlike torsion springs that mount above the door opening on a steel shaft, extension springs mount on both sides of the door, running parallel to the horizontal tracks.

Each extension spring connects to the bottom bracket (or cable) at the door’s base and to a pulley or hook at the rear of the horizontal track. When the door closes, the springs stretch under tension, storing energy. When you open the door, that stored energy contracts the springs and helps lift the door’s weight.

Extension springs are typically found in:

• Older homes – Many Utah homes built before 1990-2000 use extension spring systems
• Single-car garages – The lighter door weight suits extension springs
• Low-headroom garages – Where there isn’t enough clearance above the opening for a torsion system
• Lightweight doors – Aluminum, single-layer steel, or uninsulated doors under 150 pounds
• Budget installations – Extension systems cost less to install initially

How Extension Springs Work

Understanding how extension springs function helps you recognize problems early and make informed decisions about repair, replacement, or conversion.

The Counterbalance System

Your garage door is heavy. A standard single-car door weighs 75 to 150 pounds, while a double-car door can weigh 150 to 300 pounds or more. Without springs, lifting that weight by hand or with a standard opener motor would be nearly impossible.

Extension springs create a counterbalance by storing mechanical energy as they stretch. Here’s the cycle:

1. Door closes: As the door moves down, cables pull the springs along the horizontal tracks, stretching them to their full extended length
2. Energy stored: The stretched springs hold potential energy – just like a rubber band pulled taut
3. Door opens: When you trigger the door to open (by hand or opener), the springs contract, pulling cables that run through pulleys to lift the door
4. Door stays open: When fully open, the springs are near their resting length with minimal tension

The Pulley System

Extension springs work with a system of pulleys and cables to multiply their force and create smooth, balanced movement. A typical extension spring setup includes:

• Two extension springs – one on each side of the door
• Lift cables – connecting the bottom brackets of the door to the pulleys
• Sheave pulleys – mounted at the junction of the vertical and horizontal tracks
• Safety cables – threaded through each spring to contain them if they break
• S-hooks or clip ends – connecting the spring to the track bracket and the pulley fork

Types of Extension Springs

Not all extension springs are created equal. The type of end fitting determines how the spring connects to the track hardware, and each type has different durability and safety characteristics.

Open-Looped Extension Springs

Open-looped springs have an open wire hook at each end. They’re the most basic and least expensive type, but also the weakest. The open loop is the most likely failure point – when the loop stretches or breaks, the entire spring becomes useless. If one end breaks, you must replace the entire spring even if the coils themselves are still functional.

Best for: Lightweight single-car doors under 100 pounds

Drawback: Weakest end fitting, most prone to failure at the loop

Double-Looped Extension Springs

Double-looped springs have two coils at each end that connect to the S-hook or track bracket. This design distributes stress across two contact points instead of one, making them significantly stronger than open-looped springs. They’re the most common type found in residential installations.

Best for: Standard residential doors, most home applications

Drawback: More difficult to replace than open-looped (requires removing the pulley)

Clip-End (Clipped) Extension Springs

Clip-end springs are the premium option. Instead of wire loops, they use a metal clip that attaches directly to the track. This design eliminates the loop failure point entirely, distributes stress evenly across several coils rather than concentrating it at the end, and provides the longest service life of any extension spring type.

Best for: Heavier doors, high-use applications, homeowners who want maximum lifespan

Drawback: Highest cost, not always available for all door weights

Extension Springs vs. Torsion Springs: Key Differences

If you’re replacing extension springs, you may be wondering whether to stick with extension springs or upgrade to torsion. Here’s a quick comparison of the two systems. For a deeper dive, see our complete torsion vs. extension spring comparison guide.

Safety Cables: Your First Line of Defense

Safety cables are the single most important safety feature on any extension spring system. They’re simple steel cables that thread through the center of each extension spring and anchor at both ends of the horizontal track.

Without safety cables, a broken extension spring becomes a projectile. When an extension spring breaks under full tension, it can launch across your garage at tremendous speed, damaging vehicles, walls, stored items, or anyone in its path. Unlike torsion springs that stay contained on their mounting shaft when they break, extension springs have nothing holding them in place without safety cables.

How to Check for Safety Cables

Stand inside your garage with the door closed (springs fully stretched) and look at the extension springs along the horizontal tracks:

• Safety cables present: You’ll see a thin steel cable running through the center of each coil spring, with the cable anchored to the track bracket or wall at each end
• No safety cables: The springs stretch freely between their mounting points with nothing running through the center coils

Many older Utah homes, especially those built before the 1990s when safety cable requirements became more strictly enforced, may have extension springs without safety cables. This is one of the first things our technicians check during any garage door maintenance visit.

Safety Cable Installation

Installing safety cables on an existing extension spring system is straightforward for a professional. The cable threads through the center of the spring and secures to the track angle brackets at each end. The cable should be taut enough to contain the spring if it breaks but not so tight that it interferes with the spring’s natural stretching motion.

If your springs are already nearing the end of their lifespan, your technician may recommend replacing the springs and installing safety cables at the same time, saving a second service call.

7 Warning Signs Your Extension Springs Need Attention

Extension springs don’t last forever. Recognizing the warning signs of failing springs helps you get them replaced before they break, which is always safer, less expensive, and more convenient than dealing with an emergency failure.

1. Visible Stretching or Gaps Between Coils

With the door closed, examine your extension springs. Healthy springs have evenly spaced, tightly wound coils. If you notice uneven spacing, stretched-out sections, or gaps where the coils have pulled apart, the spring is fatiguing and losing its ability to properly counterbalance the door. This is the earliest visible sign of wear.

2. Door Feels Heavy or Hard to Lift

A properly balanced garage door should feel light – around 8 to 10 pounds of lifting force. If your door suddenly feels heavy when you try to lift it manually, one or both extension springs may be weakening. Test this by disconnecting your opener (pull the emergency release cord) and lifting the door by hand. If it takes significant effort, the springs aren’t doing their job. See our complete balance test guide for step-by-step instructions.

3. Door Won’t Stay Open

When you open your garage door fully and release it, it should stay in place. If the door slowly slides back down, the springs have lost tension and can no longer hold the door’s weight at the open position. This is a progressive problem – it starts with slow creeping and gets worse until the door won’t stay open at all. Learn more in our guide to doors that won’t stay open.

4. Rust or Corrosion on Spring Coils

Rust weakens steel by reducing the effective diameter of the wire and creating stress concentration points where cracks can form. In Utah, extension springs are particularly vulnerable to rust from road salt residue (especially along the Wasatch Front I-15 corridor), Great Salt Lake salt aerosols, and humidity during inversion events. Even light surface rust increases the risk of sudden spring failure. See our rust prevention guide for more.

5. One Spring Broke, the Other Hasn’t

If one extension spring breaks, the other spring is the same age and has endured the same number of cycles. It will likely fail soon. Many homeowners make the mistake of replacing only the broken spring to save money, only to have the second spring break weeks or months later – requiring a second service call and double the labor cost.

6. Unusual Noises During Operation

Extension springs can produce several warning sounds as they wear:

• Squeaking or squealing: Usually means the coils need lubrication, but can also indicate metal fatigue
• Popping or snapping: Coils shifting under uneven tension – a sign of weakening
• Loud bang: A spring has already broken. Do not operate the door and call a professional. Read our complete noise diagnosis guide

7. Door Opens Unevenly or Appears Crooked

Because extension springs work independently on each side of the door, uneven wear between the two springs causes the door to tilt or rise unevenly. If one side of your door opens faster than the other, one spring is likely weaker than its partner. This uneven operation stresses the tracks, rollers, and opener, accelerating wear on every component. Our crooked garage door guide covers all the causes.

Extension Spring Replacement: What to Expect

Whether your extension spring broke suddenly or a technician identified it during an inspection, here’s what the replacement process looks like.

The Professional Replacement Process

1. Safety assessment: The technician inspects the entire system – both springs, safety cables, pulleys, lift cables, and brackets
2. Door securing: The door is clamped or locked in position to prevent movement during spring removal
3. Tension release: Remaining tension is carefully released from the springs. Even on a broken spring, the other spring still holds tension
4. Old spring removal: The S-hooks or clips are disconnected, the safety cable is removed, and the old spring comes off
5. New spring sizing: The technician verifies the correct spring size based on door weight, height, and track radius. Extension springs are color-coded by weight rating
6. New spring installation: New springs are mounted, safety cables threaded through, and connections secured
7. Cable and pulley check: Lift cables and pulleys are inspected and replaced if worn
8. Balance and safety test: The door is tested for proper balance, smooth operation, and auto-reverse safety compliance

A professional extension spring replacement typically takes 45 minutes to 1.5 hours, depending on whether both springs are being replaced and whether additional components (cables, pulleys, brackets) need attention.

Extension Spring Color Codes

Extension springs use a color coding system to indicate their weight capacity. This makes it easier for technicians to identify the correct replacement spring at a glance:

• Tan: 100 lbs
• White: 110 lbs
• Green: 120 lbs
• Yellow: 130 lbs
• Blue: 140 lbs
• Red: 150 lbs
• Brown: 160 lbs
• Orange: 170 lbs
• Gold: 180 lbs
• Light blue: 190 lbs
• Purple (for pairs): 200+ lbs

A standard two-car insulated garage door weighing 250 pounds would need two extension springs rated for approximately 125 pounds each. Using springs with the wrong weight rating is dangerous. Springs rated too low will stretch excessively and break prematurely. Springs rated too high will make the door difficult to close and strain the opener.

Extension Spring Replacement Cost

Extension spring replacement is one of the most affordable garage door repairs. Here are typical industry price ranges:

These are industry-wide ranges. Actual costs depend on spring type, door weight, accessibility, and your location within Utah. For an exact quote, call Advanced Door at (844) 971-3667 for a free estimate.

For a comprehensive breakdown of all garage door spring costs, including torsion spring pricing, see our complete spring replacement cost guide.

Converting Extension Springs to Torsion: Is It Worth It?

One of the most impactful upgrades you can make to your garage door system is converting from extension springs to torsion. This is especially relevant for Utah homeowners with older homes where the original extension spring system has reached the end of its useful life.

Benefits of Converting to Torsion

• Longer lifespan: Standard torsion springs last 15,000 to 20,000 cycles. Advanced Door’s lifetime warranty springs deliver 50,000 to 100,000+ cycles – potentially 3 to 10 times longer than extension springs
• Better safety: Torsion springs stay on their shaft when they break. No projectile risk, no need for safety cables
• Smoother operation: The continuous shaft provides more even door balance than two independent extension springs
• Quieter: Fewer moving parts (no pulleys, no S-hooks) means less noise
• Less wear on opener: Better balance means your opener works less hard, extending its lifespan
• Supports heavier doors: If you’re upgrading to an insulated or thicker door, torsion springs handle the added weight more easily
• Less hardware: Eliminates the pulley system, safety cables, and S-hooks – fewer parts to maintain and fewer points of failure

When Conversion Makes Sense

Conversion is most cost-effective when:

• Your extension springs have failed and need replacement anyway (the incremental cost to convert is modest)
• You’re installing a new, heavier, or insulated door (most new doors are designed for torsion systems)
• You’re upgrading your opener (a good time to address the spring system too)
• Your garage has adequate headroom above the door opening (minimum 12 inches for a standard torsion setup)
• You want to reduce long-term maintenance and replacement costs

When to Keep Extension Springs

Extension springs remain the right choice in some situations:

• Very low headroom: If you have less than 12 inches of clearance above your door opening, there may not be room for a torsion spring and mounting hardware (low-headroom torsion kits exist but add cost and complexity)
• Lightweight single-car door: If you have a lightweight, non-insulated, single-car door and you’re not planning to upgrade, extension springs work fine
• Budget constraints: If cost is the primary factor, replacing extension springs with new extension springs is the most affordable option
• Short-term ownership: If you’re selling the home soon, replacing with extension springs gets the door working at minimal cost

How Utah’s Climate Affects Extension Springs

Utah’s unique climate creates specific challenges for extension spring systems. Understanding these factors helps you anticipate problems and maintain your springs for maximum lifespan.

Temperature Extremes

Utah experiences some of the most dramatic temperature swings in the country. Cache Valley can see winter lows of -20F and summer highs of 100F, a 120-degree annual range. This constant expansion and contraction of the steel wire accelerates metal fatigue, reducing the effective cycle life of extension springs by 20 to 30 percent compared to moderate climates.

Road Salt and Corrosion

UDOT applies millions of tons of salt and brine to Utah roads each winter. Vehicles track salt-laden slush into garages, where it aerosolizes and settles on metal components including extension springs. Homes along the I-15 corridor from Ogden through Salt Lake City to Provo are especially affected. Road salt accelerates corrosion, weakening the spring wire and creating stress points where breaks are more likely.

Great Salt Lake Aerosols

The Great Salt Lake generates salt aerosols that drift across the Salt Lake Valley and Davis County. These microscopic salt particles deposit on garage door hardware and accelerate corrosion. Homes in Tooele County, western Salt Lake County, and the Weber County lake-effect zone are particularly vulnerable.

Inversion Moisture

Winter inversions trap cold, moist air in Utah’s valleys, sometimes for weeks at a time. This sustained humidity promotes rust formation on unprotected springs. Combined with road salt residue, inversion moisture can rapidly accelerate corrosion.

Canyon Winds and Dust

Utah’s canyon mouths – from Draper to Bountiful to Sandy – experience strong canyon winds that blow dust, sand, and debris into garages. This abrasive material can wear on spring coils and cable connections. In southern Utah communities like St. George and Cedar City, desert dust and sand are year-round concerns.

Elevation Effects

Utah’s varied elevation – from 4,200 feet in the valleys to 7,000+ feet in mountain communities like Park City – means different UV exposure levels and temperature profiles. Higher elevation communities experience more UV degradation of lubricants and more frequent freeze-thaw cycles that stress spring metal.

Extension Spring Maintenance Guide

Proper maintenance can significantly extend the life of your extension springs and help you catch problems before they become emergencies.

Monthly Visual Inspection (1 Minute)

Every month, take a quick look at your extension springs with the door closed:

• Look for gaps between coils (uneven stretching)
• Check for rust spots or discoloration
• Verify safety cables are intact and properly threaded
• Check S-hooks or clips for bending or looseness
• Look at lift cables for fraying or wear near pulleys

Quarterly Lubrication (5 Minutes)

Apply a silicone-based or lithium-based garage door lubricant to:

• The full length of each extension spring (spray along the coils)
• All pulley bearings
• S-hook or clip connection points
• Cable connection points

Lubrication reduces friction between coils (which causes wear), creates a moisture barrier against corrosion, and quiets squeaking. For detailed instructions, see our lubrication guide.

Twice-Yearly Balance Test (2 Minutes)

Disconnect your opener and lift the door halfway by hand. Release it carefully. A properly balanced door should stay in place. If it rises or falls, the springs are out of balance and may need adjustment or replacement. Full instructions are in our balance test guide.

Annual Professional Inspection

Have a qualified technician inspect your entire spring system once a year. They can measure spring tension precisely, identify wear patterns invisible to the untrained eye, and estimate remaining life. Schedule it as part of your annual garage door maintenance tune-up by calling (844) 971-3667.

DIY vs. Professional Extension Spring Replacement

Of all garage door spring types, extension springs are the most commonly attempted as a DIY project. They are generally considered less dangerous than torsion springs because you can release their tension by opening the door fully. However, there are important safety considerations.

What DIY Homeowners Can Safely Do

• Visual inspections: Checking springs for stretching, rust, and wear
• Lubrication: Applying lubricant to springs, pulleys, and connection points
• Balance testing: Disconnecting the opener and testing door balance
• Safety cable check: Verifying safety cables are present and secure

Why Professional Replacement Is Recommended

Even though extension springs can technically be replaced by a skilled DIYer, there are compelling reasons to hire a professional:

• Spring sizing: Using the wrong spring weight, length, or type can cause the door to operate unsafely. Professionals use precise door weight measurements and spring charts to select the correct replacement
• Safety: Even with the door fully open, there’s still tension in the system. Improperly releasing or installing springs can result in injury
• Complete system assessment: A professional checks cables, pulleys, brackets, and rollers that a homeowner might overlook. A worn cable or cracked pulley can cause a newly installed spring to fail prematurely
• Warranty: Professional installation typically includes a warranty on parts and labor. Advanced Door offers the only lifetime warranty on parts and labor in Utah
• Conversion opportunity: A professional can evaluate whether torsion conversion makes sense for your specific setup and install the conversion hardware correctly
• Time: What might take a homeowner several hours (including research, parts sourcing, and cautious installation) takes a professional under an hour

Common Extension Spring Problems Beyond Breakage

Not every extension spring problem means the spring has broken. Here are issues that can affect performance without complete spring failure:

Stretched Springs (Loss of Tension)

Over time, extension springs gradually stretch beyond their design length. This “spring fatigue” means the spring can no longer generate enough force to properly counterbalance the door. The door gets progressively heavier to lift, puts increasing strain on your opener, and may not stay open. Unlike a dramatic break, this is a gradual decline that many homeowners don’t notice until the door becomes obviously heavy.

S-Hook Failure

The S-hooks connecting extension springs to the track bracket and pulley fork can bend open, crack, or pull free over time. An S-hook failure releases the spring end suddenly, dropping the door on that side. This is one reason clip-end springs are preferred – they eliminate S-hooks entirely.

Pulley Wear

Extension springs rely on pulleys to redirect cable force. When pulley bearings wear out or the pulley sheave develops grooves from cable friction, the system becomes less efficient. You’ll notice increased noise, jerky door movement, and accelerated cable wear. Pulleys should be inspected and replaced during spring replacement.

Cable Fraying

The lift cables that connect your door’s bottom brackets to the extension spring pulleys are under constant stress. Cable fraying usually starts at the pulley contact point where the cable bends under load. Frayed cables can snap suddenly, causing the door to drop on one side. If you see any broken strands in your cables, schedule replacement immediately. Learn more in our cable repair guide.

Uneven Tension Between Springs

Because extension springs work independently on each side of the door, they can wear at different rates. This creates uneven tension that makes the door tilt during operation. Uneven operation puts lateral stress on rollers, tracks, and the opener that these components aren’t designed to handle. If your door appears crooked, uneven extension springs are a common cause.

How to Choose the Right Extension Springs

If you’re purchasing extension springs (whether for professional or DIY installation), getting the right specification is critical for safety and performance.

Key Specifications

• Weight capacity: Must match half your door’s weight (each of two springs carries half the load). Use a bathroom scale under the door to get an accurate weight
• Spring length: Must match your track length and door height. Standard lengths are 25 inches (for 7-foot doors) and 28 inches (for 8-foot doors)
• Wire gauge: Thicker wire equals stronger, longer-lasting springs. Common gauges are 0.207, 0.218, 0.234, 0.250, and 0.262 inches
• Inside diameter: Standard is 2 inches, but verify your specific system
• End type: Open-looped, double-looped, or clip-end (must match your hardware)
• Cycle rating: Higher cycle ratings cost more but last longer. For Utah’s climate, invest in the highest cycle rating you can afford

Extension Spring Lifespan: What to Expect in Utah

Extension spring lifespan is measured in cycles. One cycle equals one complete open-and-close of your garage door. Most families average 3 to 5 cycles per day, or roughly 1,000 to 1,800 per year.

Here’s what that means for real-world lifespan in Utah:

• Open-looped springs: 5,000-10,000 cycles = approximately 3-7 years
• Double-looped springs: 10,000-15,000 cycles = approximately 6-10 years
• Clip-end springs: 15,000-20,000 cycles = approximately 8-13 years

These estimates assume normal usage and basic maintenance. Utah’s temperature extremes, road salt exposure, and humidity factors can reduce these numbers by 20 to 30 percent. A double-looped extension spring that might last 10 years in a mild climate may only last 7 years in a Cache Valley garage exposed to extreme cold.

For a comprehensive look at spring lifespans and the factors that affect them, read our complete spring lifespan guide.

By comparison, Advanced Door’s lifetime warranty torsion springs deliver 50,000 to 100,000+ cycles. For a family averaging 4 cycles per day, that’s 35 to 70 years of service – potentially the only springs you’ll ever need to install.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if I have extension springs or torsion springs?

Look at where your springs are located. Extension springs run horizontally along the tracks on either side of the door. Torsion springs are mounted on a metal shaft directly above the door opening. If your springs stretch when the door closes, they’re extension springs. If they wind tighter, they’re torsion springs. Our torsion vs. extension comparison guide has detailed photos and descriptions.

Can I replace just one extension spring?

Technically yes, but it’s strongly not recommended. Extension springs work as a matched pair. If one broke, the other has the same age and wear and will likely break soon. Replacing both ensures even door balance, prevents a second service call, and costs very little extra since the labor is the same. Always replace both springs together.

Are extension springs more dangerous than torsion springs?

Extension springs present a different type of danger. When a torsion spring breaks, it stays on its shaft and typically just makes a loud bang. When an extension spring breaks without safety cables, the spring can fly across the garage as a metal projectile. However, extension springs are considered easier to work on because you can fully release their tension by opening the door, while torsion springs require specialized winding bars to safely de-tension. Both types should be serviced by professionals.

How much does it cost to convert extension springs to torsion?

Industry-wide, extension-to-torsion conversion typically costs $350 to $600, including the torsion spring, shaft, brackets, drums, and cables. This is more than simply replacing extension springs ($175-$300), but the torsion system lasts significantly longer, operates more smoothly, and is safer when the spring eventually breaks. For a free estimate on conversion, call Advanced Door at (844) 971-3667.

Do extension springs need safety cables?

Absolutely yes. Safety cables are essential on every extension spring system. Without them, a broken extension spring becomes an uncontained projectile that can cause serious injury or property damage. If your extension springs don’t have safety cables threaded through them, stop using your garage door and call a professional immediately to have them installed.

Why do my extension springs keep breaking?

Frequent spring failure (more than once every 5 years) usually indicates one or more issues: wrong spring weight rating for your door, poor quality springs, excessive corrosion from road salt or humidity, or high daily usage. In Utah, temperature extremes and corrosion from road salt are the most common accelerators. If you’re replacing springs frequently, ask your technician about upgrading to clip-end springs or converting to a torsion system with lifetime warranty springs.

Can I add a second spring to each side for more lifting power?

Some extension spring systems use two springs per side (four total) for heavier doors. However, adding springs to an existing single-spring-per-side system requires specific hardware and careful calculation. Simply adding a spring without proper engineering can over-tension the system, making the door difficult to close and stressing the opener. Have a professional evaluate whether your system supports additional springs or whether converting to torsion is a better solution.

My garage has low headroom. Can I still convert to torsion?

Yes, in most cases. Low-headroom torsion spring kits (also called rear-mount or double-track torsion systems) are designed for garages with limited clearance above the door opening. These systems use modified mounting brackets and may require a low-headroom track kit. They cost more than standard torsion conversions but give you all the benefits of torsion springs even in tight spaces. A technician can evaluate your specific clearance and recommend the best option. Call (844) 971-3667 for a free evaluation.