Garage Door Weatherproofing: The Complete Sealing and Protection Guide for Utah Homeowners

Garage door weatherproofing means sealing every gap around your garage door – bottom, sides, top, threshold, and panels – to block drafts, water, pests, dust, and temperature extremes from entering your garage. A fully weatherproofed garage door can cut energy loss through the garage by 50% or more. Advanced Door is Utah’s #1 rated garage door company with a 4.9-star rating, 30,000+ reviews, and the only lifetime warranty on parts and labor in the state. We serve every community from Logan to St. George. Call (844) 971-3667 for a free weatherproofing assessment.

Last updated: June 2026

What Is Garage Door Weatherproofing?

Garage door weatherproofing is the process of sealing every gap, crack, and opening around your garage door to create a barrier against the elements. This includes replacing worn seals along the bottom, sides, and top of the door, adding a threshold seal on the floor, insulating the door panels, and addressing structural gaps that allow air, water, pests, and dust to infiltrate your garage.

Most homeowners think of weatherproofing as a winter task, but in Utah, a properly sealed garage door matters year-round. Summer heat pushing 100 degrees in St. George, spring rain in the Wasatch Front, dust storms along the western deserts, and sub-zero Cache Valley winters all demand a garage door that forms a tight barrier against the outside environment.

A standard single-car garage door has approximately 60 linear feet of seal contact points. A double-car door has roughly 80. When those seals deteriorate, the cumulative gaps can equal leaving a window wide open in your garage 24 hours a day.

7 Signs Your Garage Door Needs Weatherproofing

Not sure if your garage door’s seals need attention? Look for these warning signs that indicate your weatherproofing has failed or is failing:

1. Visible light under or around the door. Close your garage door on a sunny day and turn off the lights. If you see daylight coming through the bottom, sides, or top of the door, your seals have gaps. Even a quarter-inch gap along the bottom of a 16-foot double door allows significant air exchange.

2. Water puddles after rain or snowmelt. Finding water inside your garage after a storm is a clear sign that your bottom seal, threshold seal, or both have failed. In Utah, spring snowmelt is particularly problematic because water can pool against the door for hours as afternoon temperatures rise.

3. Dust and debris accumulation. If you notice fine dust coating surfaces near the garage door, especially along the floor, it’s entering through seal gaps. This is particularly common in Utah’s western valleys (Tooele, West Valley) where dust and sand blow in from the west.

4. Temperature extremes inside the garage. If your garage feels nearly as hot as outside in summer or as cold as outside in winter, your weatherproofing is ineffective. A well-sealed, insulated garage should maintain temperatures 10 to 20 degrees different from exterior conditions.

5. Pests getting inside. Mice need only a quarter-inch gap to enter. Spiders, ants, and other insects exploit even smaller openings. If you’re finding pests in your garage despite sealing other entry points, your garage door is likely the culprit.

6. Cracked, brittle, or missing seal material. Walk around your closed garage door and inspect every seal visually. Rubber and vinyl seals harden and crack over time, especially in Utah’s UV-intense sunlight and temperature extremes. If the material crumbles when you press it, it’s no longer sealing.

7. Increased energy bills. If your home’s heating or cooling costs have climbed without an obvious explanation, a failing garage door seal could be the cause. An attached garage with poor weatherproofing forces your HVAC system to work harder to maintain temperatures in adjacent rooms.

The 5 Garage Door Seals (And What Each One Does)

A fully weatherproofed garage door uses five distinct seal types. Each serves a specific purpose, and missing even one creates a weak point in your protection. Here’s what each seal does and where it goes:

1. Bottom Seal (Astragal)

The bottom seal, also called an astragal, attaches to the bottom edge of the garage door panel. It compresses against the floor when the door closes, creating the primary barrier between the door and the ground. This is the seal that takes the most abuse: every open-close cycle compresses and releases it, it drags across the floor if the door doesn’t lift cleanly, and it absorbs impact from uneven concrete.

Bottom seals come in several profiles: T-style (fits into a retainer channel), bulb-style (rounded for uneven floors), bead-style (for older doors without retainers), and dual-contact (two compression points for better sealing). For a deep dive on replacement, see our complete bottom seal replacement guide.

2. Weatherstripping (Side and Top Seals)

Weatherstripping runs along both sides and across the top of the garage door opening, attached to the door frame (jamb). When the door closes, the panels press against this weatherstripping to seal the perimeter. Side seals prevent wind-driven rain, dust, and cold air from entering the sides. The top seal (header seal) blocks air infiltration along the top edge.

Weatherstripping is typically vinyl, rubber, or a flexible PVC compound. It attaches to the jamb with nails, screws, or an adhesive-backed mounting strip. See our weatherstripping replacement guide for detailed installation steps.

3. Threshold Seal

Unlike the bottom seal (which attaches to the door), a threshold seal attaches to the garage floor. It creates a raised barrier that the door closes against, providing a second line of defense at the bottom. Threshold seals are particularly effective against water intrusion because they create a dam that prevents pooling water from flowing under the door.

Threshold seals are made from heavy-duty rubber or vinyl and are adhered or screwed to the concrete floor. They work best in combination with a bottom seal, not as a replacement for one. Our threshold seal installation guide covers the full process.

4. Panel Seals (Between Sections)

Sectional garage doors (the most common type in residential use) are made of multiple horizontal panels connected by hinges. Between each panel, there’s a small gap that can allow air and water to pass through. Panel seals, also called section joints or inter-panel seals, are rubber or vinyl strips that run along these horizontal gaps to block infiltration.

Most newer garage doors come with panel seals from the factory, but they can wear out or be damaged. On older doors, they may be missing entirely. Replacing panel seals requires removing and reinstalling hinge hardware, which is best left to a professional if you’re not comfortable working with the door’s components.

5. Corner Seals and Gap Fillers

Even with all four previous seals in perfect condition, there are often small gaps at the corners where seals meet, around hardware openings, and where the tracks pass through the opening. Corner seals and gap fillers address these remaining weak points. Foam tape, rubber corner pads, and flexible vinyl strips can close these final gaps.

Corner gaps are most noticeable at the bottom corners of the door, where the bottom seal meets the side weatherstripping. Wind-driven rain and resourceful pests frequently exploit these intersection points.

Seal Comparison Table: Materials, Lifespan, and Cost

Insulation as Weatherproofing: R-Values and Options

Seals stop air and water from getting around the door, but insulation stops heat transfer through the door panels themselves. Even a perfectly sealed garage door with no insulation will conduct heat and cold directly through the steel, aluminum, or wood panels. In Utah, where a south-facing garage door in St. George can reach surface temperatures above 150 degrees F in July, insulation is not optional for effective weatherproofing.

Understanding R-Values

R-value measures a material’s resistance to heat flow. Higher R-values mean better insulation. For garage doors in Utah:

• R-0 to R-4: Uninsulated or minimally insulated. Common on builder-grade single-layer doors. Provides almost no thermal protection.
• R-6 to R-9: Moderate insulation. Polystyrene inserts between two steel skins. Adequate for mild climates but struggles in Utah extremes.
• R-12 to R-18: Good insulation. Polyurethane foam injected between steel skins. The sweet spot for most Utah homes. Keeps garage temperatures 15 to 25 degrees different from exterior conditions.
• R-18+: Premium insulation. Multiple layers or thick-core construction. Best for attached garages where the garage wall connects to heated living spaces, or for homeowners using the garage as a workshop or gym.

Insulation Options for Existing Doors

If you’re keeping your current door but want better thermal performance, you have three main options:

Polystyrene (rigid foam) panels: Lightweight, easy to cut and fit into door panel frames. R-3.5 to R-4 per inch. Most affordable DIY option. Won’t add much weight. Available at most hardware stores in 4×8 sheets.

Polyurethane spray foam: Higher R-value per inch (R-6 to R-7). Bonds to the door panel and adds structural rigidity. More expensive and messier to install. Best applied by a professional.

Reflective foil insulation: Reflects radiant heat. Most effective in hot climates (St. George, southern Utah). Lower R-value for conductive heat transfer but excellent at blocking radiant heat from a sun-baked door. Easy DIY installation with adhesive.

For a complete walkthrough of adding insulation to an existing door, see our guide to insulating your garage door. If you’re shopping for a new pre-insulated door, our insulated garage door buyer’s guide covers every option.

The Complete Weatherproofing Project: Step-by-Step

Weatherproofing your entire garage door is a manageable weekend project. Here’s the recommended order for the best results:

Step 1: Inspect and Assess

Close the garage door completely. Turn off all lights and look for daylight around every edge. Run your hand along the bottom, sides, and top to feel for air movement. Check the door panels for gaps between sections. Make notes of every problem area.

Step 2: Replace the Bottom Seal First

The bottom seal is the most critical weatherproofing component and usually the first to fail. If your bottom seal is cracked, compressed flat, torn, or missing chunks, replace it before doing anything else. Match the seal profile to your door’s retainer channel. For detailed steps, see our bottom seal replacement guide.

Step 3: Replace Side and Top Weatherstripping

Remove the old weatherstripping from both side jambs and the header. Clean the surface, then install new weatherstripping with the flexible flange facing the door. The seal should compress slightly when the door closes, not fold over or gap. Our weatherstripping replacement guide walks through every step.

Step 4: Install a Threshold Seal

If your garage floor slopes toward the door, if you get water intrusion during rain, or if your bottom seal alone isn’t stopping drafts, add a threshold seal. Clean the concrete thoroughly, apply adhesive, and press the seal into place. The door should compress against the threshold seal when it closes. See our threshold seal installation guide.

Step 5: Address Panel and Corner Gaps

With the perimeter sealed, focus on the gaps between door sections. If your door has inter-panel seals that are worn or missing, replace them. Use foam tape or rubber corner pads at the bottom corners where the side weatherstripping meets the bottom seal. These small finishing touches make a significant difference.

Step 6: Add or Upgrade Insulation

If your door panels aren’t insulated, add insulation to complete the weatherproofing. Cut polystyrene panels to fit each door section and press them into the panel frames. Make sure they’re secure but don’t interfere with the door’s operation. After adding insulation, run a balance test to confirm the springs can handle the added weight.

Step 7: Final Testing

Close the door and repeat the daylight test. Run your hand along every seal to confirm compression. Open and close the door several times to make sure nothing is binding, dragging, or interfering with operation. Test the safety sensors and auto-reverse function to confirm the new seals haven’t affected safety features.

Stopping Water Intrusion

Water getting into your garage is one of the most common weatherproofing complaints in Utah. Spring snowmelt, summer thunderstorms, and irrigation runoff can all send water toward your garage door. Here’s how weatherproofing prevents water intrusion at every vulnerable point:

Floor-level defense (bottom seal + threshold seal): The most water enters under the door. A combination of a good bottom seal on the door and a threshold seal on the floor creates a dual barrier. The threshold seal acts as a dam, and the bottom seal compresses against it to form a watertight joint. This combination handles standing water up to about one inch deep.

Side defense (weatherstripping): Wind-driven rain hits the sides of the door at an angle. Side weatherstripping prevents water from being pushed into the gap between the door edge and the jamb. For areas with heavy wind exposure (Point of the Mountain, canyon mouths, open valley floors), consider wider-profile weatherstripping that creates a deeper compression zone.

Panel defense (section seals): Horizontal rain can push water between door sections, especially on the windward side. Inter-panel seals block this path. This is particularly relevant for homeowners in areas with persistent wind-driven precipitation.

Drainage: Weatherproofing keeps water out, but proper drainage keeps water from pooling against the door in the first place. Your driveway or concrete apron should slope away from the garage opening at a minimum grade of 1/8 inch per foot. If water pools against your door, consider having the concrete regraded or installing a trench drain across the driveway in front of the garage.

Pest Prevention Through Weatherproofing

Your garage door is the largest opening in your home, and when seals fail, it becomes an open invitation for pests. Effective weatherproofing is your first line of defense against unwanted visitors.

Mice and rats: A mouse can squeeze through a gap as small as a quarter inch. A rat needs only half an inch. The most common entry point is the bottom corners of the door, where the bottom seal meets the side weatherstripping. A threshold seal combined with tight corner pads eliminates these gaps.

Spiders and insects: Utah’s fall spider migration (particularly hobo spiders and wolf spiders) sends hundreds of spiders looking for shelter. Garage doors with worn seals are an easy entry point. Complete perimeter sealing with flexible weatherstripping blocks even small arthropods.

Snakes: In southern Utah and the warmer valleys, gopher snakes and occasionally rattlesnakes can enter garages through bottom seal gaps. A threshold seal creates a barrier that’s difficult for snakes to cross.

Dust and allergens: While not “pests” in the traditional sense, pollen, dust mites, and airborne allergens enter through seal gaps. For homeowners who use the garage as a workshop, gym, or hobby space, weatherproofing reduces airborne particles significantly.

Utah Regional Weatherproofing Guide

Utah’s dramatic climate variation from north to south and valley floor to mountain summit means weatherproofing priorities differ depending on where you live. Here’s what matters most in each region:

Cache Valley and Northern Utah (Logan, Smithfield, Brigham City)

Winters are Utah’s coldest and longest here, with inversions trapping frigid air for weeks. Prioritize heavy-duty bottom seals rated for sub-zero temperatures, thick weatherstripping, and maximum insulation (R-12 or higher). Cold makes rubber seals stiff and brittle, so choose seals rated for extreme cold or use silicone-based products. Spring freeze-thaw cycles cause significant concrete heaving, which can create gaps under the door that shift from season to season. Check seal contact after every winter.

Wasatch Front (Ogden, Salt Lake City, Provo)

The Wasatch Front gets everything: heavy snow, road salt spray, summer heat, inversions, and canyon winds. UDOT road salt is particularly damaging to rubber and vinyl seals along the bottom of the door. Clean the bottom seal and threshold regularly during winter to remove salt residue. Inversion moisture accelerates seal degradation, and canyon winds from Big Cottonwood, Little Cottonwood, Ogden Canyon, and Provo Canyon create extreme wind-driven precipitation that tests side weatherstripping.

Utah County and South Valley (Draper, Sandy, Lehi, Orem)

Point of the Mountain winds create a unique challenge. The wind tunnel between the Wasatch Range and Oquirrh Mountains generates sustained gusts that push dust, rain, and debris directly into garage door gaps. Wider-profile weatherstripping and threshold seals are essential for homes along the wind corridor. New construction communities (Eagle Mountain, Saratoga Springs, Herriman) often have builder-grade doors with minimal weatherproofing from the factory.

Tooele and Western Valleys

Desert dust, salt flat particulates, and extreme temperature swings (30+ degree daily ranges) define this region. Dust infiltration is the primary concern. Focus on tight perimeter sealing with foam-backed weatherstripping and a threshold seal to block ground-level dust. Great Salt Lake salt aerosols accelerate seal degradation in Tooele, Grantsville, and Stansbury Park.

Park City and Mountain Communities

Heavy snowfall, altitude (6,000 to 9,000+ feet), and UV exposure create demanding conditions. Snow can pile up against the garage door, and freeze-thaw cycles cause ice dams at the bottom seal. Choose UV-resistant seal materials (EPDM rubber outperforms standard rubber at altitude). Threshold seals are critical for snowmelt management. Vacation and rental homes that sit unoccupied for weeks need extra-durable seals since problems won’t be caught quickly.

St. George and Southern Utah

Extreme UV radiation and sustained heat above 100 degrees F destroy standard rubber and vinyl seals rapidly. Seals can become brittle and crack within one to two years of installation. Use UV-stabilized or silicone-based seal materials whenever possible. Desert sand and dust abrade seal surfaces during wind events. Reflective foil insulation is particularly effective here for blocking radiant heat through the door panels. Pest prevention is year-round in southern Utah, unlike the seasonal concern in northern areas.

Complete Weatherproofing Cost Breakdown

Here’s what a complete garage door weatherproofing project typically costs, covering materials, professional labor, or both:

DIY vs. Professional Weatherproofing

Many weatherproofing tasks are well within reach for a competent DIY homeowner. But some situations call for professional help. Here’s how to decide:

Good DIY Projects

• Bottom seal replacement on doors with a retainer channel: Slide out the old one, slide in the new one. Takes 15 to 30 minutes.
• Side and top weatherstripping: Remove old strips, clean the surface, nail or screw on new ones. Takes 30 to 60 minutes.
• Threshold seal installation: Requires cleaning the floor, applying adhesive, and positioning the seal. Takes 60 to 90 minutes for proper adhesive curing.
• Polystyrene insulation panels: Cut to fit, press into panel frames. Takes 1 to 2 hours for a standard double door.
• Corner seals and gap fillers: Peel-and-stick foam tape or rubber pads. Takes 15 minutes.

Call a Professional When

• The bottom panel is damaged or warped: A new seal won’t fix a dented or twisted panel. The panel may need replacement before seals can work properly.
• The door is unbalanced after adding insulation: Added weight requires spring adjustment. Never adjust torsion springs yourself.
• The concrete floor is severely uneven: Grinding or leveling the floor for proper seal contact is professional territory.
• Panel/section seals need replacement: This requires removing hinge hardware and working with spring-loaded components.
• You want spray foam insulation: Improper application can create voids, mess, and bonding failures.
• The door frame is rotted or damaged: Weatherstripping can’t seal against a deteriorating jamb.

Want a professional assessment? Call Advanced Door at (844) 971-3667 for a free estimate on any weatherproofing work. Our technicians can inspect your entire door system and recommend exactly what needs attention.

Seasonal Weatherproofing Schedule for Utah

Different seasons in Utah stress different parts of your weatherproofing system. Follow this schedule to catch problems before they become expensive:

Spring (March – May)

Spring is inspection season. Winter takes its toll on every seal. Check the bottom seal for compression damage from ice and salt. Look for cracks in side weatherstripping caused by winter cold cycling. Clean salt residue from the bottom seal and threshold seal. Check the threshold seal adhesion (winter freeze-thaw can loosen the bond). Test door balance after any insulation added over the winter.

This is also the best time for full weatherproofing projects. Moderate temperatures (50 to 70 degrees F) are ideal for adhesive bonding and seal installation. Our spring maintenance checklist covers additional items beyond weatherproofing.

Summer (June – August)

Summer reveals insulation problems. If your garage is an oven, your insulation is inadequate. Check seals for UV damage and heat-softened material. Inspect the threshold seal for heat-related expansion (some rubber seals swell in extreme heat and can interfere with door closure). Clean dust buildup from all seal surfaces. Verify that heat expansion hasn’t created new gaps at corners.

For a complete summer preparation checklist, see our summer prep guide.

Fall (September – November)

Fall is your last chance to weatherproof before winter. Replace any seals that are cracked, flattened, or missing. This is the most important time to complete any deferred weatherproofing work. Test the bottom seal with a dollar bill test: slide a dollar bill under the door at several points along the bottom. If it slides out easily anywhere, that seal area is failing. Add or check the threshold seal bond before the first freeze. Clean and prepare all seals for winter.

Our fall pre-winter checklist covers additional tasks to winterize your entire door system.

Winter (December – February)

Winter is survival mode. Don’t plan major weatherproofing work in winter because adhesives don’t bond well below 40 degrees F and seal materials are stiff and hard to install. Instead, focus on monitoring. After heavy snow, check for water intrusion. Remove ice buildup from the bottom seal to prevent tearing when the door opens. If a seal fails mid-winter, use temporary foam tape or rope caulk as a stopgap until spring. See our winter garage door problems guide for troubleshooting cold-weather issues.

7 Common Weatherproofing Mistakes

Even motivated DIY homeowners make these errors when weatherproofing their garage door. Avoid them for the best results:

1. Only replacing the bottom seal. The bottom seal is important, but it’s only one of five seal types. If you replace the bottom seal but ignore worn side weatherstripping, air and water still enter freely from the sides. Weatherproofing is only as strong as its weakest seal.

2. Using the wrong seal profile. Bottom seals come in T-style, bulb, bead, and dual-contact profiles. Using the wrong profile for your door’s retainer channel results in a seal that doesn’t seat properly, gaps out, or falls out entirely. Match the profile to your specific retainer before purchasing.

3. Installing seals on dirty surfaces. Adhesive-backed weatherstripping and threshold seals bond to clean surfaces. Oil, dirt, dust, paint flakes, and old adhesive residue all prevent proper bonding. Clean with degreaser and let the surface dry completely before installation.

4. Over-compressing seals. Seals should compress slightly when the door closes, but not so much that they fold over, bunch up, or resist the door’s movement. Over-compression puts excessive strain on the opener and can trigger the auto-reverse safety feature. If the door won’t close fully or reverses after closing, the seals may be too thick.

5. Ignoring the floor condition. No seal can compensate for severely cracked, heaved, or uneven concrete. If your garage floor has shifted, the bottom seal and threshold seal will have gaps no matter how new the material is. Address floor problems first or consider a bulb-style bottom seal that conforms better to uneven surfaces.

6. Forgetting to test safety features after installation. New seals change how the door contacts the ground. A threshold seal raises the floor contact point. Both can affect travel limit settings and force settings on your opener. Always test and adjust these settings after weatherproofing.

7. Using indoor-rated materials outdoors. Some foam tapes and weatherstripping products are designed for interior doors and windows. These won’t survive UV exposure, temperature extremes, or moisture. Always use products specifically rated for exterior or garage door applications.

When Weatherproofing Isn’t Enough

Sometimes, no amount of seal replacement and insulation will solve the underlying problem. If your garage door has any of these issues, weatherproofing is a temporary fix at best:

• Warped or bent panels: A crooked or misaligned door can’t seal properly against straight weatherstripping. The panels themselves may need replacement or the tracks may need repair.
• Severe rust damage: Rusted-through panels create holes that no seal covers. Panel replacement or full door replacement is the only solution.
• Structural frame damage: If the door frame (jamb) is rotted, warped, or pulling away from the wall, weatherstripping can’t maintain consistent contact. Frame repair or replacement must happen first.
• End-of-life door: A door that’s past its useful life (20+ years, multiple panel replacements, persistent issues) may not justify further weatherproofing investment. A new garage door with factory-installed insulation and integrated seals provides better weatherproofing than any aftermarket solution on an aging door.

Not sure whether to weatherproof or replace? Call Advanced Door at (844) 971-3667 for an honest assessment. We’ll tell you what makes sense for your specific situation. Free estimates, no pressure.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to weatherproof a garage door?

A complete DIY weatherproofing project (bottom seal, side weatherstripping, threshold seal, corner seals, and polystyrene insulation) typically costs $135 to $390 in materials. Professional installation of all components ranges from $500 to $1,500 or more depending on the door size and condition. You can also tackle one component at a time to spread the cost out.

How often should I replace my garage door seals?

In Utah’s climate, plan to replace the bottom seal every 2 to 4 years, side and top weatherstripping every 3 to 5 years, and threshold seals every 3 to 5 years. Corner seals and foam tape may need annual replacement. Inspect all seals twice yearly (spring and fall) and replace them whenever you see cracking, compression loss, or gaps.

Can I weatherproof my garage door myself?

Yes, most garage door weatherproofing tasks are DIY-friendly. Bottom seal replacement, weatherstripping installation, threshold seal installation, insulation panel installation, and corner sealing are all straightforward projects that require basic tools. The exceptions are panel seal replacement (requires working with hinge hardware), spray foam insulation (messy and technique-dependent), and any work that affects spring balance (requires professional adjustment).

What is the best garage door seal material for Utah?

EPDM rubber is the best all-around seal material for Utah’s climate. It resists UV degradation, maintains flexibility in extreme cold, tolerates high heat, and has a longer lifespan than standard rubber or vinyl. Silicone-based seals are also excellent for extreme conditions but cost more. Avoid standard PVC in southern Utah, as UV exposure causes rapid deterioration.

Will weatherproofing my garage door save on energy bills?

Yes, particularly if your garage is attached to your home. A well-sealed and insulated garage door can reduce heat transfer through the garage by 50% or more. Homeowners with attached garages typically notice a measurable reduction in heating and cooling costs, especially in rooms adjacent to the garage. The exact savings depend on your home’s insulation, the garage door’s R-value, and local energy rates.

Does a threshold seal affect how my garage door opens and closes?

A properly installed threshold seal should not interfere with normal door operation. However, it does change the door’s floor contact point, which may require adjusting the opener’s travel limit settings. Always test the door’s auto-reverse function after installing a threshold seal to confirm it still reverses when it contacts an obstruction.

How do I stop water from getting under my garage door?

Install both a bottom seal on the door and a threshold seal on the floor for the most effective water barrier. Make sure your driveway slopes away from the garage at a minimum grade of 1/8 inch per foot. If water still enters, consider installing a trench drain across the driveway in front of the garage. For persistent flooding, a professional may need to regrade the concrete apron.

Can I weatherproof an old garage door or should I replace it?

If the door panels are structurally sound, the frame is in good condition, and the door operates properly, weatherproofing is a cost-effective solution. If the door has warped panels, severe rust, structural damage, or is more than 20 years old, you may get better results and long-term value from a new door with factory-installed insulation and integrated seals. A free inspection from Advanced Door can help you decide.