Garage Door Troubleshooting: The Complete Symptom-by-Symptom Guide for Utah Homeowners

If your garage door is not working correctly, start by identifying your exact symptom – whether it won’t open, won’t close, makes unusual noises, moves unevenly, or has opener problems – then follow the matching troubleshooting steps in this guide. Advanced Door, Utah’s #1 rated garage door company with 30,000+ five-star reviews and the only lifetime warranty on parts and labor in the state, provides free diagnostic estimates across every Utah community. Call (844) 971-3667 for same-day troubleshooting help from our certified technicians.

Last updated: June 2026

Your garage door just did something strange. Maybe it stopped halfway. Maybe it made a sound you have never heard before. Maybe you pressed the button and nothing happened at all. Whatever the symptom, your first instinct is probably to start searching for answers online.

This guide is designed to be the only page you need. We have organized every common garage door problem by what you actually see, hear, or experience so you can match your symptom to the most likely cause and decide whether it is a quick DIY fix or a call to a professional.

Advanced Door technicians handle hundreds of service calls every month across Utah, from Logan to St. George. We have seen every problem on this list dozens of times. Below, we share exactly what we look for, what you can safely check yourself, and when you need professional help to avoid making the problem worse or putting yourself at risk.

If at any point you identify a problem involving springs, cables, bottom brackets, or anything under high tension, stop and call a professional. These components can cause serious injury.

Call (844) 971-3667 for a Free Diagnostic

Master Diagnostic Table: Find Your Problem in 60 Seconds

Start here. Find the symptom that best matches what your garage door is doing, then follow the link to the detailed troubleshooting section.

Door Won’t Open at All

A garage door that refuses to open is one of the most common – and most stressful – problems Utah homeowners face. You press the button, the remote, the keypad, and nothing happens. Or you hear the motor running but the door stays put. Here is how to narrow down the cause.

Check the Obvious First

Before assuming the worst, run through these quick checks that solve the problem about 40% of the time:

• Remote batteries: Replace the batteries in your remote. This is the #1 cause of “my door won’t open” calls, and it takes 30 seconds to fix.
• Power supply: Check that the opener is plugged in and that the outlet has power. Tripped breakers and GFCI outlets are common culprits, especially after Utah storms.
• Manual lock: Look at the inside of your door for a manual slide lock or T-handle lock. If someone locked it manually, the opener cannot override the lock and will strain against it.
• Wall button: Try the wall-mounted button. If the wall button works but the remote does not, the problem is the remote or its programming, not the door or opener.
• Emergency disconnect: Check the red emergency release cord hanging from the opener rail. If it was pulled (intentionally or accidentally), the opener is disconnected from the door. Reconnect by pulling the cord toward the opener until it clicks back into the trolley.

Broken Spring (Most Common Mechanical Cause)

If your door will not open and you heard a loud bang from the garage – like a gunshot or a car backfiring – you almost certainly have a broken torsion spring. Look at the horizontal bar (torsion bar) above the door opening. If you see a gap in the coils or a spring that is clearly separated, that confirms it.

A broken spring is the most common mechanical reason a garage door will not open. Springs typically last 10,000 to 20,000 cycles (7 to 14 years for most households). In Utah, temperature swings between summer and winter accelerate metal fatigue, shortening that lifespan. Learn more about signs your spring is about to break.

Snapped Cable

If the door is visibly tilted or you see a loose cable hanging beside the door or wrapped around the drum at the top, a cable has snapped. Cables work alongside springs to lift the door evenly. When one breaks, the door becomes unbalanced and the opener cannot lift it safely.

Stripped Opener Gear or Broken Trolley

If you hear the motor running but the door does not move at all, the problem is usually a stripped main drive gear inside the opener or a broken trolley carriage on the rail. The motor spins, but the force is not transferring to the door. This requires opener repair or replacement. See our opener troubleshooting guide for detailed steps.

Door Won’t Close

A door that opens fine but refuses to close is almost always a safety sensor issue. Modern garage door openers are required by federal law (UL 325) to have photo-eye sensors that prevent the door from closing on a person, pet, or object. When these sensors detect a problem, the door will refuse to close or reverse immediately after starting.

Photo-Eye Sensor Problems

The two small sensors at the bottom of your door tracks (about 6 inches off the floor) must have a clear line of sight to each other. Here is what to check:

• Obstruction: Move any boxes, tools, shoes, or debris that might be blocking the sensor beam.
• Alignment: If one sensor light is blinking (usually the receiving sensor), the sensors are misaligned. Gently adjust the blinking sensor until both lights are solid. Our sensor alignment guide walks through this step by step.
• Dirty lenses: Wipe both sensor lenses with a soft cloth. Dust, cobwebs, and garage grime build up and weaken the beam.
• Sun interference: In Utah, afternoon sun can blind sensors, especially on west-facing garages. A simple cardboard tube or PVC shade around the receiving sensor usually solves this.
• Wiring: Check the thin wires running from each sensor back to the opener. Weed trimmers, bikes, and foot traffic can damage these wires over time.

Travel Limit Settings

If the door starts to close but reverses before reaching the floor (without the sensors triggering), your close travel limit may need adjustment. The opener thinks the door has hit an obstruction because the limit is set too short. See our travel limit adjustment guide for brand-specific instructions.

Broken Sensor or Wiring

If you have cleaned, aligned, and checked the wiring and the sensor light still blinks or stays off, the sensor itself may have failed. Sensors cost $15 to $50 for the part, but wiring issues can be tricky to diagnose. A sensor replacement is a straightforward repair for a technician. Call (844) 971-3667 if you need help.

Door Opens or Closes Only Partway

A door that starts moving but stops before reaching the fully open or fully closed position is telling you something. The cause depends on whether it stops going up, stops going down, or stops inconsistently.

Stops Partway While Opening

• Track obstruction: Inspect both vertical and curved track sections for debris, a loose bolt, or a damaged track that narrows the path.
• Open travel limit too short: The opener’s open limit may be set to stop the door before it reaches the fully open position. Adjust the open limit screw or digital setting.
• Weak or failing spring: If the spring is losing tension, it cannot fully counterbalance the door’s weight. The opener strains to lift it and gives up partway. A balance test confirms this quickly.
• Worn rollers: Rollers with flat spots, broken bearings, or heavy corrosion create friction that stops the door. Roller replacement often solves this.

For a comprehensive walkthrough, see our guide on why your garage door won’t open all the way.

Stops Partway While Closing

• Close force set too low: If the door encounters even slight resistance (from cold-stiffened seals, dirty tracks, or a tight spot), a low force setting tells the opener to stop. Increase the close force gradually.
• Sensor issue: Even partial alignment problems can trigger a mid-close stop. Review the Door Won’t Close section above.
• Track damage: A bent or misaligned track section at a specific point will stop the door consistently at the same height. Inspect the tracks visually and with a level. See our track repair guide.
• Obstruction in the track: Small objects, ice (in Utah winter), or accumulated grime at a specific point in the track path.

For full details, see our guide on why your garage door is not closing all the way.

Door Reverses, Reopens, or Won’t Stay Put

Reversal problems are some of the most frustrating garage door issues because they feel random. The door seems to work, then changes its mind. Here are the three main categories.

Closes Then Immediately Reopens

If the door closes all the way (or nearly all the way) to the floor and then immediately reverses back to the open position, the most common causes are:

• Close limit set too far: The opener is trying to push the door past the floor level, thinks it has hit an obstruction, and reverses. Decrease the close travel limit slightly.
• Close force too high: Excessive force causes the door to slam against the floor and bounce, triggering the auto-reverse.
• Damaged or misaligned track at the bottom: The door binds at the bottom of the track, triggering a force-based reversal.

For a complete walkthrough with step-by-step fixes, see our dedicated guide on why your garage door closes and then reopens.

Opens By Itself (Phantom Opening)

A garage door that opens on its own is a security concern. Common causes include:

• Neighbor’s remote on the same frequency: Older openers use fixed codes that can overlap with nearby doors. Reprogram to a rolling code system.
• Stuck wall button: Moisture, debris, or a wiring short can make the wall button send a continuous signal.
• Remote stuck in a drawer or under something: Pressure on a remote button in a junk drawer or car console can trigger the opener.
• Timer-to-close feature: Some openers have an auto-close timer that can malfunction or be set without the owner realizing.
• Smart opener app: A family member may have opened the door remotely through myQ, Aladdin Connect, or another app.

For more causes and solutions, see our detailed guide on garage door security.

Won’t Stay Open (Slides Back Down)

If your door opens but immediately starts sliding back down or crashes closed, this is a spring tension problem. The springs are not providing enough counterbalance to hold the door’s weight in the open position.

For detailed diagnosis, see our complete guide on why your garage door won’t stay open.

Door Is Off Track, Crooked, or Stuck

A door that has come off its tracks or is hanging at an angle is a serious situation that requires professional repair. These problems usually involve high-tension components and structural damage that makes DIY attempts dangerous.

Off Track

When a door jumps off its tracks, the rollers have come out of the track channel. You will usually see the door sitting at an odd angle, with one or more rollers visible outside the track. Common causes include:

• Impact from a vehicle (even a minor bump can misalign tracks)
• Broken cable allowing one side to drop
• Broken roller allowing the stem to pop out of the track
• Bent track from age, impact, or extreme force
• Broken bottom bracket or hinge

For a complete guide, see our garage door off-track repair guide.

Crooked or Uneven

If the door looks tilted – one side higher than the other – the most likely causes are a broken spring on one side (for extension spring systems), a snapped cable, or a failed roller or hinge on one side. See our crooked garage door guide for detailed diagnosis.

Stuck or Jammed

A door that is completely stuck in place – won’t move up or down, manually or with the opener – usually means a severely bent track, a jammed roller, or frozen components (common in Utah winters when ice builds up in tracks). Do not force the door. Disconnect the opener using the emergency release and try to gently identify the binding point. If it does not move freely by hand, call a professional.

Unusual Noises

Garage doors are mechanical systems with dozens of moving parts, and each part makes a distinctive sound when something goes wrong. Use the noise your door makes to narrow down the cause.

For a full noise diagnosis with cost estimates and detailed solutions, see our comprehensive noise diagnosis guide or our guide on how to make your garage door quieter.

Opener, Remote, and Keypad Problems

If the door itself seems mechanically fine but the opener system is not responding correctly, the issue is electrical or electronic rather than mechanical.

Motor Runs But Door Does Not Move

You press the button, hear the motor, see the light turn on, but the door stays still. This almost always means:

• Emergency release is engaged: The red cord was pulled, disconnecting the trolley from the opener carriage. Pull the cord back toward the motor to re-engage.
• Stripped main drive gear: The most common internal opener failure, especially on chain drive units older than 10 years. The nylon gear that transfers motor power to the drive mechanism wears down. Gear replacement costs $150 to $250.
• Broken trolley carriage: The plastic trolley that rides on the rail and connects to the door arm can crack or break. Replacement runs $100 to $200.

Remote Won’t Work

• Dead battery: Replace the CR2032 or equivalent coin cell battery.
• Out of range: The typical remote range is 50 to 200 feet. Walls, metal buildings, and LED light bulbs (which emit radio frequency interference) can reduce range significantly.
• Deprogrammed: Power outages or surges can erase remote programming. Re-pair the remote to the opener using the Learn button. See our programming guide.
• LED bulb interference: Cheap LED bulbs emit RF noise that interferes with garage door remotes. Replace standard LEDs with opener-rated LED bulbs (Chamberlain, Genie, and LiftMaster all sell compatible versions).

Keypad Won’t Work

• Dead battery: Keypads use a 9V or 12V battery that typically lasts 1 to 2 years.
• Wrong code: If someone changed the code and did not tell you, or if a power surge reset the opener, the keypad may need reprogramming.
• Weathered buttons: Utah sun, cold, and moisture degrade keypad membranes over time. If buttons feel mushy or unresponsive, the keypad may need replacement.
• Vacation/lock mode: Some openers have a lock mode that disables all remote devices (remotes and keypads). Check your wall button for a lock indicator or hold the lock button for a few seconds to toggle it off.

For brand-specific troubleshooting and diagnostic codes, see our guides for LiftMaster, Genie, Chamberlain, and Craftsman.

Opener Light Blinking or Flashing

Most modern openers use blinking LED patterns to communicate diagnostic codes. The number of blinks, the color, and the pattern each mean something different. Common blink patterns include:

• 1 blink: Sensor wire disconnected or open circuit
• 2 blinks: Sensor wire shorted
• 3 blinks: Door control wire shorted
• 4 blinks: Sensor slightly misaligned (intermittent beam)
• 5 blinks: Motor thermal overload (overheated, wait 15 minutes)
• 10 blinks: Door travel error (limit adjustment needed)

These vary by brand and model. For exact codes, see our brand-specific troubleshooting guides linked above or consult your opener’s manual.

WiFi or Smart Features Not Connecting

If your myQ, Aladdin Connect, or other smart garage features are not responding, try these steps in order:

1. Check your home WiFi – is it working for other devices?
2. Power cycle the opener (unplug for 30 seconds, plug back in)
3. Move your WiFi router closer or add a range extender if the garage is far from the router
4. Check the app for firmware updates
5. Reset the WiFi module by holding the appropriate button (varies by brand) and re-pair through the app

For detailed smart opener troubleshooting, see our smart garage door opener guide.

Visual Damage: Dents, Rust, Warping, and Seals

Not all garage door problems involve the door failing to operate. Visual damage affects curb appeal, insulation, security, and can lead to mechanical problems if left unaddressed.

Dents and Impact Damage

Small dents from basketballs, hail, or minor bumps are usually cosmetic. However, significant dents can:

• Prevent panels from seating correctly in the track
• Create gaps that let in weather, dust, and pests
• Weaken the panel structure, especially on single-layer steel doors
• Compromise insulation on insulated panels

Minor surface dents on steel doors can sometimes be popped out. Severe dents or creased panels usually require panel replacement.

Rust and Corrosion

Utah’s Wasatch Front is particularly hard on garage doors due to road salt spray from UDOT winter operations and Great Salt Lake aerosols. Surface rust can be treated with sanding, primer, and paint. Through-rust (holes or flaking metal) means the panel needs replacement. See our complete rust prevention and repair guide for step-by-step treatment.

Panel Warping

Panels can warp from heat exposure (especially south-facing doors in Utah summer), moisture intrusion in wood doors, or manufacturing defects. Warped panels create gaps, make the door harder to seal, and can cause tracking problems. Minor warping can be lived with; severe warping requires panel or door replacement.

Seal and Weatherstrip Damage

If you see light coming through the sides, top, or bottom of your closed garage door, or if water, dust, or pests are getting in, your seals need attention:

• Bottom seal: The rubber strip along the bottom edge. Cracks, tears, and hardening (especially in Utah cold) mean it needs replacing. See our bottom seal replacement guide.
• Side and top weatherstripping: The foam or rubber seals along the door jamb. UV damage and temperature cycling cause these to compress, crack, and lose their seal. See our weatherstripping guide.
• Threshold seal: A raised rubber seal bonded to the garage floor beneath the door. If you do not have one, adding a threshold seal is one of the most effective upgrades for keeping out weather and pests.

For a comprehensive overview of all sealing options, see our weatherproofing hub guide.

Seasonal and Weather Problems in Utah

Utah’s extreme climate puts unique stresses on garage doors. The problems you see often depend on the season.

Winter Problems (November Through March)

• Door frozen to the floor: Snowmelt refreezes overnight, bonding the bottom seal to the concrete. Never force the door open – this can tear the seal, damage the opener, or pull the door off track. Pour warm (not boiling) water along the bottom seal to melt the ice, or use a heat gun on a low setting.
• Metal contraction: Steel tracks, springs, and hardware shrink in cold temperatures. This changes tolerances and can cause the door to bind, stick, or make new noises.
• Lubricant thickening: Standard grease thickens in cold weather, creating drag. Use a cold-rated silicone lubricant before winter hits.
• Spring breakage: Cold metal is brittle. More springs break in Utah’s January-March cold snaps than any other time. Watch for warning signs.
• Road salt corrosion: UDOT’s heavy salt use on I-15, I-80, and I-215 creates salt spray that settles on garage doors, especially in communities near major highways.

For a complete winter troubleshooting guide, see our winter garage door guide.

Summer Problems (June Through September)

• Thermal expansion: Steel components expand in 95 to 105 degree Utah summers. Tracks may bind, weatherstripping softens and deforms, and opener force settings that worked in winter may need adjustment.
• Weatherstripping melting or softening: Direct sun exposure on south and west-facing doors can heat the surface to 140+ degrees, degrading rubber seals and bottom gaskets.
• Opener overheating: High garage temperatures (often 120+ degrees in an uninsulated Utah garage) can trigger thermal protection in openers, causing them to shut down mid-cycle.
• Sun blinding sensors: Low-angle morning or evening sun can interfere with photo-eye sensors.
• UV damage to paint and finish: Utah’s high elevation means stronger UV exposure, fading paint and degrading finishes faster than lower-altitude states.

For full summer troubleshooting, see how summer heat affects your garage door.

Storm Damage

After a major storm (hail, high winds, or flooding), inspect your garage door for:

• Hail dents on panels and tracks
• Wind damage to panels, seals, and opener wiring
• Water intrusion around seals and at the bottom
• Debris impact on panels or tracks
• Power surge damage to the opener (check for new error codes)

If your door was damaged in a storm, our storm damage guide covers assessment, insurance claims, and repair vs replacement decisions.

Safety Checks Every Utah Homeowner Should Know

Beyond troubleshooting specific problems, every homeowner should perform these basic safety checks monthly. They take less than 10 minutes and can prevent problems before they become emergencies.

1. The Balance Test

Disconnect the opener by pulling the emergency release cord. Lift the door manually to about waist height (the midpoint). Let go carefully. A properly balanced door should stay in place, drifting no more than a few inches in either direction. If it falls or rises significantly, the springs need adjustment. See our balance test guide for step-by-step instructions.

2. The Auto-Reverse Test

Place a 2×4 flat on the ground in the door’s path. Close the door using the wall button. When the door contacts the 2×4, it should reverse direction within 2 seconds. If it does not reverse, the close force is set too high or the auto-reverse mechanism is malfunctioning. This is a critical safety feature – fix it immediately.

3. The Photo-Eye Test

With the door open, press the wall button to close. While the door is moving, wave a broom handle or similar object through the sensor beam at the bottom of the tracks. The door should reverse immediately. If it does not, the sensors are not working correctly.

4. Visual Inspection

Look at the springs, cables, rollers, tracks, and hinges. You are looking for:

• Gaps in spring coils (sign of a broken or cracked spring)
• Frayed or kinked cables
• Cracked or chipped rollers
• Loose bolts or screws on tracks and hinges
• Rust on any metal component
• Worn or cracked weatherstripping

For a comprehensive maintenance routine, see our maintenance schedule.

DIY Troubleshooting vs Calling a Professional

Some garage door problems are safe and straightforward to handle yourself. Others are genuinely dangerous and require trained technicians with the right tools. Here is a clear breakdown.

Safe for DIY

• Replacing remote or keypad batteries
• Cleaning and aligning photo-eye sensors
• Lubricating rollers, hinges, and springs (spray lubricant only – do not touch springs)
• Tightening loose track bolts and hinge screws
• Adjusting travel limits and force settings on the opener
• Replacing the bottom seal
• Installing weatherstripping
• Replacing the opener light bulb
• Reprogramming remotes and keypads
• Cleaning tracks (wipe with a cloth – do not use lubricant on tracks)

Call a Professional

• Anything involving torsion springs (winding, unwinding, adjusting, replacing)
• Anything involving cables (replacing, adjusting, re-spooling on drums)
• Anything involving the bottom brackets (connected to cables under tension)
• Off-track doors (high tension, unpredictable weight shifting)
• Panel replacement (requires spring tension adjustment)
• Track repair or realignment (affects entire door balance)
• Opener motor or gear replacement (electrical and mechanical complexity)
• Any repair where the door is visibly damaged or hanging unevenly

What Professional Repair Typically Costs

For a detailed breakdown of repair costs by type, see our repair cost guide. Here are general ranges:

• Spring replacement: $200 to $400+ (depending on spring type and quality). See our spring replacement cost guide.
• Cable repair: $150 to $300
• Roller replacement: $150 to $300 for a full set
• Track repair: $150 to $400
• Opener repair/replacement: $200 to $600+
• Panel replacement: $250 to $800+ per panel
• Sensor replacement: $100 to $200

Advanced Door provides free estimates on all repairs – no diagnostic fees, no trip charges, no hidden costs. Call (844) 971-3667.

Utah-Specific Troubleshooting Factors

Utah’s geography and climate create unique challenges for garage doors that homeowners in milder climates never encounter. Understanding these factors helps you diagnose problems faster and prevent them in the future.

Temperature Extremes

Utah experiences some of the most dramatic temperature swings in the country. Cache Valley can drop to -20 degrees in January and hit 100+ degrees in July – a 120-degree annual range. These extremes cause:

• Metal fatigue in springs: Repeated expansion and contraction weakens the metal grain structure, reducing spring lifespan by 20-30% compared to temperate climates.
• Travel limit drift: Tracks expand in summer and contract in winter, changing the door’s travel distance. You may need to adjust limits seasonally.
• Lubricant failure: Standard lubricants thin in summer heat and thicken in winter cold. Use a synthetic, temperature-rated garage door lubricant.

Road Salt and Great Salt Lake Aerosols

UDOT applies road salt heavily from November through March on I-15, I-80, I-215, and major state routes. Vehicles carry this salt home to the garage. Additionally, communities near the Great Salt Lake (Davis County, portions of Salt Lake County, Box Elder County) are exposed to salt-laden aerosols that accelerate corrosion on steel doors, springs, tracks, and hardware.

Homes within 2 miles of major highways or within 10 miles of the Great Salt Lake should be on an accelerated maintenance schedule with additional rinsing and corrosion prevention. See our rust prevention guide for details.

Elevation and Wind

Utah’s diverse elevation – from 4,200 feet in the valleys to 9,000+ feet in mountain communities – affects garage door performance. Higher elevations mean colder temperatures, more snow load on garage structures, and different air pressure on opener systems. Canyon wind corridors (Parley’s Canyon, Weber Canyon, Spanish Fork Canyon, Point of the Mountain) can create sudden gusts exceeding 60 mph that stress garage door panels, tracks, and seals. For homes in wind-exposed areas, see our wind load ratings guide and our struts and reinforcement guide.

Builder-Grade Doors

Utah experienced a massive construction boom from 2015 to 2022, especially in Utah County, Davis County, and the south end of Salt Lake County. Many of these homes were built with the cheapest available garage doors – single-layer 25-gauge steel, minimal insulation, economy springs rated for 10,000 cycles. These doors are now 4 to 10 years old and entering the failure window. If your home was built during this period and you are experiencing increasing problems, see our guide on upgrading your builder-grade garage door.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most common reason a garage door stops working?

The single most common cause is dead remote batteries. After that, sensor misalignment is the most frequent issue for doors that won’t close, and broken springs are the most common mechanical failure for doors that won’t open. Start with the simplest possibility (batteries, power, manual lock) before assuming a major mechanical problem.

How do I know if my garage door spring is broken?

The most obvious sign is a loud bang from the garage (the sound of the spring snapping). You may also see a visible gap in the spring coils on the torsion bar above the door. Other signs include the door being extremely heavy when lifted manually, the door only opening a few inches, or the opener straining without moving the door. See our spring failure signs guide for a complete list.

Why does my garage door work sometimes but not other times?

Intermittent problems are usually caused by a sensor that is borderline misaligned (the beam connects sometimes but not others), a remote with a weak battery, LED light interference with the remote signal, a loose wire connection, or a temperature-sensitive component that expands or contracts between morning and afternoon. Track the pattern – does it fail at certain times of day, temperatures, or after specific events?

Can I fix my garage door myself?

Many minor issues are safe for DIY – battery replacement, sensor cleaning and alignment, lubrication, tightening loose hardware, adjusting travel limits, and replacing weatherstripping. However, anything involving springs, cables, bottom brackets, or an off-track door should always be handled by a professional. These components are under high tension and can cause severe injury.

How much does it cost to have a technician diagnose my garage door problem?

Advanced Door provides free diagnostic estimates. We will come to your home, identify the problem, explain the repair options, and give you a price before any work begins. No trip charges, no hidden fees. Many garage door companies charge $50 to $100 just for a service call – we do not. Call (844) 971-3667 to schedule your free estimate.

How long do garage door repairs typically take?

Most common repairs are completed in a single visit. Spring replacement takes 45 minutes to 1.5 hours. Roller replacement takes about 1 hour. Sensor repair takes 30 minutes to 1 hour. Opener replacement takes 2 to 3 hours. Panel replacement may take 1 to 2 weeks if the panel needs to be ordered from the manufacturer.

Why does my garage door make a loud noise when opening or closing?

The most common causes of garage door noise are dry rollers (squeaking), loose hardware (rattling), worn bearings (grinding), and metal-on-metal contact from misaligned tracks (scraping). Start by lubricating all moving parts with silicone spray. If the noise persists, use our noise diagnosis guide to match the sound to the cause.

Should I repair my garage door or replace it?

As a general rule, if repairs cost more than 50% of a new door, replacement makes more sense. Other factors include the door’s age (15+ years usually means replace), frequency of repairs (multiple repairs per year), energy efficiency goals, and cosmetic condition. Our repair vs replacement guide covers the full decision framework.