How to Heat Your Garage: The Complete Heating and Temperature Control Guide for Utah Homeowners

The best ways to heat a garage in Utah include natural gas forced-air heaters for large or attached garages, infrared radiant heaters for workshops and spot heating, electric wall-mount heaters for smaller spaces, and mini-split heat pumps for year-round climate control. The right choice depends on your garage size, insulation level, intended use, fuel availability, and budget. Before installing any heater, proper insulation (minimum R-8 garage door, R-13 walls) and air sealing are essential prerequisites – without them, you are literally heating the outdoors. Advanced Door is Utah’s #1 rated garage door company – 4.9 stars, family owned since 1994, with the only lifetime warranty on parts and labor in Utah. We install insulated garage doors, weatherstripping, and complete sealing systems that make garage heating efficient and effective. Call (844) 971-3667 for a free estimate, or reach our local offices: Ogden (801) 430-9021, Logan (435) 363-4929, Draper (801) 967-8998. Same-day service available.

Last updated: September 2026

Why Garage Heating Matters in Utah

Utah garages face some of the most extreme temperature swings in the country. In Cache Valley, garage temperatures can plunge below zero for weeks. Along the Wasatch Front, overnight lows regularly drop into the teens from December through February. Even in St. George, winter mornings can dip into the 20s – cold enough to make garage workshops and gym spaces unusable without supplemental heat.

An unheated garage does more than make your workspace uncomfortable. Cold temperatures thicken lubricants on your garage door’s moving parts, increasing wear on rollers, hinges, and chains. Cold stress accelerates spring fatigue – torsion springs lose flexibility and can snap without warning when the metal contracts. Frozen bottom seals bond to concrete, and frozen-shut doors can damage opener gears when homeowners force them open.

Beyond your garage door system, an unheated attached garage acts as a massive cold sink that drains heat from your living space, driving up energy costs. Vehicles parked in sub-freezing garages strain batteries and thicken engine oil. Paint, adhesives, and chemicals stored in the garage can freeze and become unusable.

The good news: with proper insulation, sealing, and the right heater, you can maintain a comfortable garage workspace through even Utah’s coldest months.

Before You Heat: Insulation and Sealing Prerequisites

Installing a heater in an uninsulated, unsealed garage is like running a space heater with all the windows open. Before spending money on heating equipment, you need to create a thermal envelope that actually holds heat.

Garage Door Insulation

Your garage door is typically the largest uninsulated surface in the garage – 128 to 192 square feet of thermal exposure. A single-layer steel door without insulation has an R-value near R-0, essentially offering zero resistance to heat transfer.

For garage heating to work effectively:

• Minimum: R-8 garage door (polystyrene insulation) – suitable for moderate heating in the Wasatch Front
• Recommended: R-12 to R-16 garage door (polyurethane insulation) – ideal for workshops, gyms, and year-round use
• Premium: R-16 to R-18+ – best for Cache Valley, Park City, and mountain communities with extended sub-zero conditions

You have two options: add insulation to your existing door (DIY-friendly, $100 to $300) or upgrade to a factory-insulated door (professional installation, superior thermal performance, better R-value per inch).

Wall and Ceiling Insulation

Even with a perfectly insulated door, uninsulated walls and ceiling will bleed heat rapidly:

• Walls: R-13 to R-15 fiberglass batt insulation between studs (standard for Utah residential)
• Ceiling: R-30 to R-38 if living space is above; R-19+ if attic space above
• Concrete block walls: Rigid foam board (R-5 to R-10) glued to interior surface, covered with drywall

Air Sealing

Even small gaps create massive heat loss. Priority sealing points:

• Garage door perimeter – side and top weatherstripping, bottom seal, and threshold seal
• Garage-to-house door – weatherstripping, door sweep, and threshold
• Windows – caulk gaps, consider storm windows or insulated glass
• Penetrations – seal around electrical outlets, pipes, wires, and exhaust vents with foam or caulk
• Sill plate – foam sealant between the concrete foundation and the bottom wall plate

Garage Heater Types Compared

The table below compares the six main garage heating options across the factors that matter most for Utah homeowners.

Natural Gas and Propane Forced-Air Heaters

Forced-air heaters are the most popular choice for Utah garages, and for good reason. They heat large spaces quickly, operate cheaply on natural gas, and are available in sizes that handle everything from a single-car garage to a four-bay commercial shop.

How They Work

A burner heats a combustion chamber, and a fan blows air across the heat exchanger and into the garage. Combustion gases are vented outside through a flue pipe. The fan circulates warm air throughout the space, providing even heating.

Natural Gas vs. Propane

If your home has a natural gas connection (most homes along the Wasatch Front served by Dominion Energy), running a gas line to your garage is the most cost-effective long-term option. Operating costs for natural gas are typically 40% to 60% lower than propane per BTU.

Propane is the better choice for rural Utah properties without gas service – common in parts of Cache Valley, Tooele County, Iron County, and mountain communities. Propane tanks can be refilled or exchanged, and some propane heaters are available in vent-free models (though we strongly recommend vented units for enclosed garages).

Pros

• Fast heat-up time – most can raise garage temperature 20 to 30 degrees in 30 minutes
• Lowest per-BTU operating cost (natural gas)
• Available in wall-mount, ceiling-mount, and freestanding configurations
• Effective for large spaces (500 to 1,000+ square feet)
• Thermostat-controlled for set-and-forget operation

Cons

• Requires professional installation (gas line, venting, permits)
• Carbon monoxide risk requires proper venting and CO detectors
• Fan noise can be noticeable in quiet workspaces
• Blows dust and debris (not ideal for paint booths or finishing work)
• Higher upfront installation cost ($500 to $1,500 including gas line)

Recommended Brands

Mr. Heater Big Maxx (50,000 to 80,000 BTU), Modine Hot Dawg (30,000 to 75,000 BTU), and Heatstar by Enerco are the most commonly installed garage forced-air heaters in Utah. All are available from local HVAC suppliers and home improvement stores along the Wasatch Front.

Infrared and Radiant Heaters

Infrared heaters work differently from forced-air units. Instead of heating the air, they emit infrared radiation that directly warms objects, people, and surfaces. Think of it like standing in sunlight on a cold day – the air temperature is low, but the direct radiation feels warm on your skin.

Types of Infrared Garage Heaters

• Gas-fired tube heaters: Mount on the ceiling, radiate heat downward. Most efficient for garages. Require gas line and venting.
• Gas-fired ceramic/plaque heaters: Compact, intense heat output. Good for spot heating workbench areas.
• Electric infrared panels: Wall or ceiling mount. Lower output but zero emissions. No venting needed.
• Portable quartz heaters: Plug-in units for personal spot heating. Limited range.

Why Infrared Works Well for Garages

Infrared heaters excel in garages for several reasons unique to the space:

• Drafty spaces: Because they heat objects rather than air, opening the garage door briefly does not waste all your stored heat – the floor, walls, workbench, and tools retain warmth
• No dust circulation: No fan means no blown sawdust, paint particles, or debris – ideal for woodworking shops and finishing areas
• Zone heating: Position the heater over your primary workspace for efficient spot heating without heating the entire garage
• Faster perceived warmth: You feel warm almost immediately, even before the air temperature rises

Pros

• Heats objects and people directly – faster perceived warmth
• Silent operation (no fan)
• Does not circulate dust or debris
• Retained heat in objects survives brief door openings
• Lower operating cost than forced-air (less BTU needed for same comfort)

Cons

• Higher purchase cost than forced-air units
• Does not heat air – cold spots away from the heater’s line of sight
• Gas models require professional installation and venting
• Mounting clearance requirements (minimum 7-foot ceiling for most models)
• Can create hot spots on surfaces directly below

Electric Heaters: Wall-Mount, Baseboard, and Portable

Electric heaters are the simplest garage heating option – no gas lines, no venting, no combustion byproducts. They are the safest choice from a carbon monoxide perspective and the easiest to install.

Wall-Mount and Ceiling-Mount Electric Heaters

Hardwired 240-volt electric heaters (Cadet, Fahrenheat, King Electric, Dr. Infrared) are the most practical permanent electric option for Utah garages. They mount high on the wall or ceiling, out of the way of vehicles and workspace, and are thermostat-controlled for automatic operation.

A 240-volt, 5,000-watt unit produces approximately 17,000 BTU – enough to heat an insulated single-car garage in most of Utah. For a two-car garage, you will likely need two units or a single 7,500 to 10,000-watt model.

Baseboard Electric Heaters

Electric baseboard heaters provide gentle, silent radiant heat along the base of walls. They work well as supplemental heat but are generally too slow and low-output to be a primary heat source for a large, cold Utah garage. Best used in small garages or as a “take the edge off” solution to keep the space above freezing.

Portable Space Heaters

Standard 120-volt portable space heaters (1,500 watts maximum on a standard outlet) produce about 5,100 BTU. This is enough to warm a small area around a workbench but will not meaningfully heat a full garage in Utah winter conditions. They are best for occasional, short-duration use.

The Electricity Cost Reality in Utah

Utah electricity rates through Rocky Mountain Power average around $0.11 to $0.13 per kWh – lower than the national average but still significantly more expensive per BTU than natural gas through Dominion Energy. Running a 5,000-watt electric heater for 8 hours per day costs approximately $4.50 to $5.20 per day, or $135 to $156 per month. Natural gas providing the same BTU output costs roughly $30 to $60 per month.

Electric heaters make the most sense when: you do not have a gas line to the garage and do not want to run one, you use the garage workspace only occasionally, the garage is well-insulated and relatively small, or you prioritize zero-emission safety over operating cost.

Mini-Split Heat Pumps

Mini-split heat pumps are the premium option for garage climate control, providing both heating and cooling in a single system. They work by moving heat between the outdoor air and your garage – extracting heat from outside air in winter and removing heat from the garage in summer.

Why Mini-Splits Are Growing in Popularity for Utah Garages

Modern cold-climate mini-splits (Mitsubishi Hyper-Heating, Fujitsu XLTH, LG Red) can operate efficiently down to -13F to -22F – cold enough for anywhere in Utah. They are 2 to 3 times more energy-efficient than electric resistance heaters because they move heat rather than create it.

• Year-round comfort: Heat in winter, AC in summer. Utah’s 100F+ July days make garage cooling almost as important as heating for workshop and gym spaces.
• High efficiency: SEER2 ratings of 20+ and HSPF2 ratings of 10+ translate to lower operating costs than any other electric heating option
• Quiet operation: Indoor units produce 25 to 35 dB – quieter than a refrigerator
• No ductwork: Single indoor head unit mounts high on the wall. Small refrigerant line to outdoor unit.
• Dehumidification: Reduces moisture that causes condensation and rust on your garage door and tools

Considerations

• Highest upfront cost: $1,500 to $4,000 installed (but may qualify for federal Section 25C energy tax credits and utility rebates through available programs)
• Professional HVAC installation required: Refrigerant handling requires EPA 608 certification
• Efficiency drops in extreme cold: Below 5F, heat pumps supplement with electric resistance backup, reducing efficiency
• Outdoor unit placement: Needs clearance from snowdrifts, and the defrost cycle creates ice melt runoff in winter

Wood and Pellet Stoves

Wood and pellet stoves are most popular in rural Utah where firewood is abundant and inexpensive – parts of Cache Valley, Iron County, mountain communities near national forests, and agricultural areas with land clearing.

Wood Stoves

A small EPA-certified wood stove (25,000 to 50,000 BTU) can heat a two-car garage for pennies if you have access to free or cheap firewood. Many rural Utah homeowners heat their garage workshops primarily with wood harvested from their own property or purchased from local sources for $150 to $250 per cord.

Requirements: Class A chimney system through the roof or wall (professional installation, $1,000 to $2,500), proper clearance from combustibles (typically 36 inches on sides, 18 inches behind with heat shield), non-combustible floor pad, and compliance with local fire codes. Cache Valley and Utah Valley have specific woodburning regulations due to air quality inversions – check with your local air quality management district before installing.

Pellet Stoves

Pellet stoves offer more controlled, cleaner burning than wood stoves. They use compressed wood pellets ($5 to $7 per 40-pound bag) fed automatically from a hopper, with thermostat control and automatic ignition. Operating cost for a two-car garage: roughly $40 to $80 per month in heavy use.

Pellet stoves vent through a smaller direct-vent pipe (no traditional chimney needed), making installation somewhat simpler. However, they require electricity to run the auger, fan, and igniter – meaning they will not work during a power outage without a battery backup.

How to Size a Garage Heater (BTU Calculator Guide)

Choosing the right heater size is critical. Too small and it cannot keep up with Utah’s cold. Too large and you waste money on equipment you do not need.

Basic BTU Calculation

The general formula for garage heating:

BTU needed = Garage volume (cubic feet) x Desired temperature rise (F) x Insulation factor

• Garage volume: Length x Width x Height (typical two-car garage: 20 x 22 x 9 = 3,960 cubic feet)
• Desired temperature rise: Difference between outdoor low and your target indoor temperature (e.g., outdoor 10F, target 55F = 45 degree rise)
• Insulation factor: Well-insulated = 0.5, moderately insulated = 1.0, uninsulated = 1.5

Example for a well-insulated two-car garage on the Wasatch Front:

3,960 cubic feet x 45 degree rise x 0.5 = 89,100 BTU/hr – but this is the PEAK load number. A 45,000 to 60,000 BTU heater will maintain temperature once the space is warmed up, since the insulation retains heat between cycles.

Quick Sizing Guide for Utah

• Single-car garage (200-300 sq ft), insulated: 20,000 to 30,000 BTU
• Two-car garage (400-600 sq ft), insulated: 30,000 to 50,000 BTU
• Three-car garage (600-900 sq ft), insulated: 45,000 to 75,000 BTU
• Cache Valley / Park City / mountain communities: Add 20% to 30% for extreme cold
• Uninsulated garage: Double the BTU requirement (and seriously consider insulating first)

Garage Heating Safety: CO, Fire, and Ventilation

Garage heating introduces serious safety considerations that do not apply to heating your living space. Garages contain flammable materials, lack the fire separation of living areas, and are often less airtight – creating both ventilation challenges and CO accumulation risks.

Carbon Monoxide

Any combustion heater (gas, propane, kerosene, wood) produces carbon monoxide. In an enclosed garage, CO can accumulate to dangerous levels quickly. Our carbon monoxide safety guide covers this in detail, but the critical points for garage heating are:

• Install CO detectors: One near the heater, one near the garage-to-house door, both at breathing height (5 feet)
• Ensure proper venting: All gas and propane heaters must be vented to the outside per manufacturer specifications
• Never run a vehicle in the garage while heating – the combination of heater exhaust and vehicle exhaust is extremely dangerous
• Never use outdoor heaters indoors: Propane torpedo heaters, construction heaters, and camping stoves are designed for open-air use only
• Utah inversions compound the risk: During Salt Lake City and Cache Valley winter inversions, exhaust gases from vented heaters can settle near ground level rather than dispersing – check vent termination height and placement

Fire Safety

Garages typically contain gasoline, motor oil, solvents, paints, propane tanks, and other flammable materials. Heating a garage requires careful attention to fire safety:

• Maintain required clearance between the heater and all combustible materials (check manufacturer specifications – typically 3 to 6 feet)
• Store flammables in approved containers, in a metal cabinet, away from all heat sources
• Keep a fire extinguisher (minimum 10-lb ABC rated) within 15 feet of the heater
• Inspect the heater, venting, and connections before each heating season
• Do not hang anything from or place items on the heater or its vent pipe

Ventilation

Even with a properly vented heater, you need some fresh air exchange in a heated garage. A small amount of combustion air must enter the space for gas heaters to operate correctly. Most building codes require a combustion air intake vent for enclosed spaces with gas appliances.

For workshop and gym spaces, ventilation also manages moisture, fumes, and air quality. A bathroom-style exhaust fan (100 to 200 CFM) with a timer provides adequate air exchange without losing excessive heat.

Utah Regional Heating Guide

Utah’s dramatic climate variation means your heating requirements change significantly based on location. Here is a region-by-region guide:

Cache Valley (Logan, Smithfield, North Logan, Hyde Park)

Utah’s coldest populated area. Winter lows regularly reach -10F to -20F, with extended periods below zero. Garages need maximum insulation (R-16+ door, R-19+ walls, R-38+ ceiling) and robust heating. Natural gas forced-air or wood stoves are most common. Mandatory no-burn days during inversions require a backup heating option. Size heaters 20% to 30% above standard calculations. More about garage doors in Cache Valley.

Wasatch Front (Salt Lake City, Ogden, Provo, Layton)

Moderate Utah winter – lows typically 10F to 25F with occasional single digits. Most homeowners can heat a well-insulated two-car garage effectively with a 30,000 to 50,000 BTU natural gas heater. Dominion Energy natural gas is available throughout the metro area. Inversions affect air quality but temperatures are less extreme than Cache Valley. The Salt Lake metro has the best selection of heating equipment suppliers and HVAC contractors.

Park City, Heber, and Mountain Communities

High elevation (6,000 to 9,000+ feet) means colder temperatures, thinner air, and longer heating seasons. Forced-air heaters lose roughly 4% efficiency per 1,000 feet of elevation above sea level due to lower oxygen density. Size heaters accordingly. Mini-splits are increasingly popular for vacation homes and seasonal properties where year-round climate control protects the space and its contents. Park City garage door guide.

Utah Valley and South Valley (Lehi, Sandy, Draper)

Similar to Wasatch Front but with Point of the Mountain wind creating additional heat loss. Garages in Draper, Lehi, and Sandy exposed to canyon or valley wind corridors need extra weatherproofing to prevent wind-driven heat loss. Builder-grade homes from the 2015 to 2022 construction boom often have minimal garage insulation – upgrading the builder-grade door alone can reduce heat loss dramatically.

St. George and Southern Utah

Mild winters (lows rarely below 25F) mean lower heating requirements. A small electric heater or even a heat lamp may be sufficient for most St. George garages. However, cooling is the bigger challenge in southern Utah. Mini-splits are the ideal choice here since they provide both heating and cooling. Wood stoves are not practical due to limited wood supply and minimal heating season.

Rural and Agricultural Areas

Properties in Tooele County, Box Elder County, Iron County, and other rural areas often lack natural gas service. Propane, wood, and pellet stoves are common primary heat sources. Oversized agricultural garages (3+ bay) may need multiple heating zones. Propane delivery schedules in winter storms can be unreliable – maintain at least a half-tank reserve through December to March.

Cost Comparison: Purchase, Installation, and Operating Costs

The chart below breaks down the full cost picture for each heating option, including the often-overlooked installation and long-term operating expenses.

Operating costs assume a well-insulated two-car garage used 4 to 6 hours per day, 5 months per year (November through March). Actual costs vary significantly based on insulation level, garage size, target temperature, and local utility rates.

Smart Heating and Garage Door Integration

Modern smart garage door openers can integrate with your heating system for both efficiency and safety.

Smart Thermostats

WiFi-connected thermostats (Nest, Ecobee, Honeywell Home) allow you to:

• Set schedules that match your workshop hours – heat only when you plan to use the space
• Monitor garage temperature remotely via smartphone
• Set freeze alerts that notify you if the garage drops below a critical temperature (35F to 40F)
• Activate heating 30 to 60 minutes before you arrive via geofencing or manual trigger

Garage Door + Heating Automation

Smart home platforms (Home Assistant, SmartThings, Alexa, Google Home) can create automations that connect your garage door status to your heating:

• Auto-off when door opens: Heating pauses when the garage door opens to prevent wasting energy
• Resume when door closes: Heating restarts automatically when the door closes, with a configurable delay
• Temperature-based auto-close: If the garage drops below a set temperature (indicating the door was left open), the smart opener can close it automatically
• Freeze protection: If temperature drops below 35F, turn on heater regardless of schedule

Temperature Monitoring for Garage Door Health

While setting up garage temperature monitoring, configure alerts that also protect your garage door system:

• Below 20F: Lubricants thicken and spring tension changes – consider running the door a few times to distribute lubricant
• Below 10F: Freeze risk increases – ensure bottom seal is not sitting in standing water
• Below 0F: Spring breakage risk spikes significantly – avoid using the door during extreme cold if possible

DIY vs. Professional Installation

Safe for DIY

• Portable electric space heaters (plug and play)
• 120-volt electric baseboard heaters on existing circuits
• Adding insulation to garage door panels (insulation guide)
• Weatherstripping and sealing (weatherstripping guide)

DIY-Possible with Electrical Knowledge

• 240-volt hardwired electric heaters (requires running new circuit from panel, permits in most Utah jurisdictions)
• Pellet stove installation with direct-vent (check local codes)

Always Hire a Professional

• Natural gas or propane heater installation (gas line, venting, permits, inspection)
• Mini-split heat pump installation (refrigerant handling requires EPA certification)
• Wood stove and chimney installation (fire code compliance, building permits)
• Any work involving your home’s gas supply lines

7 Common Garage Heating Mistakes

1. Heating without insulating first. The single biggest mistake. An uninsulated garage can lose 60% to 80% of generated heat through the door, walls, and ceiling. You will spend twice as much on a bigger heater and three times as much on operating costs. Insulate and seal first, then heat.
2. Using an unvented combustion heater in a closed garage. Unvented propane, kerosene, and natural gas heaters produce carbon monoxide, nitrogen dioxide, and water vapor. In an enclosed garage, CO can reach lethal levels within minutes. Always use vented or electric heaters for enclosed spaces.
3. Oversizing or undersizing the heater. An oversized heater wastes money on equipment and cycles on and off excessively, creating uncomfortable temperature swings. An undersized heater runs constantly and never reaches your target temperature. Use the BTU sizing guide above to match your space correctly.
4. Ignoring the garage door as the weak link. A single-layer steel door (R-0 to R-2) is the largest heat-losing surface in your garage. Even if walls and ceiling are insulated, an uninsulated door can account for 30% to 40% of total heat loss. Upgrading from an uninsulated to an R-16 insulated door can cut your heating costs by 20% or more.
5. Forgetting about the gap under the door. Even a 1/4-inch gap at the bottom of your garage door lets in cold air and eliminates the thermal seal. Add a threshold seal and ensure your bottom seal is in good condition.
6. Running the heater with the garage door open. Opening the door for 5 minutes can release most of the stored heat in a garage, taking 30 to 60 minutes to recover. If you need ventilation while working, crack the door only 6 to 12 inches rather than opening fully, or use a ventilation fan.
7. Skipping CO detectors. Even properly vented gas heaters can develop leaks, cracked heat exchangers, or blocked vents over time. Install CO detectors and test them monthly during heating season.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the cheapest way to heat a garage?

For upfront cost, a portable electric space heater ($30 to $100) is cheapest but only heats a small area. For ongoing operating cost, natural gas forced-air heaters are cheapest at $30 to $60 per month for a two-car garage. The true cheapest option is insulating your garage first – you may find that insulation alone raises the temperature enough for your needs, especially if you just want to keep the space above freezing. Call (844) 971-3667 for a free insulation assessment.

Can I heat my garage to be like a living space?

Yes, but it requires investment. To maintain 68F to 72F in a Utah garage during winter, you need R-16+ door insulation, R-13+ wall insulation, R-30+ ceiling insulation, complete air sealing, and a properly sized heater (typically 45,000+ BTU for a two-car garage). A mini-split heat pump provides the most comfortable and energy-efficient year-round climate control for this level of use.

Will heating my garage damage my garage door?

No – in fact, heating protects your garage door. Cold temperatures cause metal contraction, lubricant thickening, and seal stiffening that increase wear. Maintaining temperatures above freezing reduces spring stress, prevents frozen seals, and extends the life of rollers, hinges, and weatherstripping.

Do I need a permit to install a garage heater in Utah?

It depends on the heater type. Portable electric heaters require no permits. Hardwired 240-volt electric heaters may require an electrical permit. Natural gas and propane heaters almost always require a mechanical permit and inspection. Wood stoves require both a mechanical permit and a fire inspection. Check with your local building department before installation.

Should I keep my garage warm all the time or just when I use it?

For most homeowners, heating only when you use the space is the most cost-effective approach. Use a programmable thermostat to pre-heat 30 to 60 minutes before use. The exception: if you have water pipes, paint, chemicals, or vehicles that need freeze protection, maintain a minimum temperature of 35F to 40F continuously during winter months.

Is it safe to heat an attached garage?

Yes, with proper precautions. Use vented or electric heaters only (never unvented combustion heaters), install CO detectors, maintain the fire-rated garage-to-house door, and keep flammable materials properly stored. An attached garage benefits from shared wall heat with your home, meaning you need less supplemental heating than a detached garage.

How much does it cost to run a garage heater per month in Utah?

For a well-insulated two-car garage used 4 to 6 hours daily: natural gas forced-air costs $30 to $60 per month, infrared costs $25 to $50, electric wall-mount costs $60 to $150, mini-split costs $30 to $60, and wood/pellet stoves cost $20 to $60 (less if you have free wood). The biggest variable is insulation – an uninsulated garage can cost 2x to 3x more to heat.

What temperature should I keep my garage in winter?

It depends on use. For vehicle storage and freeze prevention: 35F to 40F. For active workshop use: 50F to 60F. For extended gym or studio use: 60F to 68F. Every 10 degrees of target temperature reduces your heating cost by roughly 15% to 20%. There is no need to heat a garage to 72F for most applications.